Tuning help

[rocky]

OK.
I need to know some things before I give any advice, so bear with me.
Turn the bow so that the stabilizer is pointing to the floor, and look down the string from the bottom cam to the top idler wheel.
Tell me if the string from the bottom of the cam, to the idler wheel is perfectly straight, has a slight kink towards the rollerguide, or has a slight kink away from the rollerguide.

[muddyfuzzy]

That tear can either be a center shot or spine issue....or a combination of the two.


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[rocky]

That tear can either be a center shot or spine issue....or a combination of the two.


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I respectfully disagree.
I think ( pretty sure), it is a center-shot or cam-lean, 0r idler wheel, issue.
That is the reason for my question about string angle from bottom cam to idler.
Typically, with a release fired arrow, spine issues will show a high or low tear while paper tuning. With a single cam bow.
So far, there are too many unknowns to diagnose this problem.

[muddyfuzzy]

I respectfully disagree.

I think ( pretty sure), it is a center-shot or cam-lean, 0r idler wheel, issue.

That is the reason for my question about string angle from bottom cam to idler.

Typically, with a release fired arrow, spine issues will show a high or low tear while paper tuning.

So far, there are too many unknowns to diagnose this problem.

Could totally be a lean issue or center shot problem without a doubt but I do not agree with a spine issue creating a high/low tear. Anything is possible but speaking from my personal experience it almost always manifests itself in a horizontal tear. A ton of folks that know a lot more than me substantiate that as well.


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[Traildust]

I think your arrows are good.
I'd reset your center shot and french tune / walk back tune. IMHO.
Throw the paper in the trash. Jmho.

[Leon County Slayer]

Your nock point could be too high or low and not shooting consistently.

[rocky]

Could totally be a lean issue or center shot problem without a doubt but I do not agree with a spine issue creating a high/low tear. Anything is possible but speaking from my personal experience it almost always manifests itself in a horizontal tear. A ton of folks that know a lot more than me substantiate that as well.


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I can only speak from my years of experience, but after seeing his arrow, I'm pretty sure he's well within spine.
Stiff arrows rarely create tuning issues.
I'm pretty sure has an idler or cam-lean issue, or his rest is just way out of whack.

[TeamAmerica]

OK.
I need to know some things before I give any advice, so bear with me.
Turn the bow so that the stabilizer is pointing to the floor, and look down the string from the bottom cam to the top idler wheel.
Tell me if the string from the bottom of the cam, to the idler wheel is perfectly straight, has a slight kink towards the rollerguide, or has a slight kink away from the rollerguide.

Not sure about a kink but the idler is definitely leaning toward the right when looking down the string from the cam.

[rocky]

OK.
I need to know some things before I give any advice, so bear with me.
Turn the bow so that the stabilizer is pointing to the floor, and look down the string from the bottom cam to the top idler wheel.
Tell me if the string from the bottom of the cam, to the idler wheel is perfectly straight, has a slight kink towards the rollerguide, or has a slight kink away from the rollerguide.

Not sure about a kink but the idler is definitely leaning toward the right when looking down the string from the cam.

At brace, looking down the string from cam to idler, a slight cam lean towards rollerguide is preferred.
If it leans away from rollerguide, typically you will have to shoot inside of center by quite a bit due to the load transfer compounding this lean, which will cause the issue you're experiencing.
At full draw, idler needs to be straight.
If top of idler leans right at full draw, you will experience the left tear, and will have to shoot inside of center, causing the issues you're having.
Idler lean can be corrected by twisting one side of your harness, but cam lean usually requires a new limb.
You might reverse the limbs and hope the top limb, (now bottom limb), will carry the cam, and use the splits to 'fix' the bottom limb, (now the top).

I like seeing a bow tuning discussion for a change.

[TeamAmerica]

At brace, looking down the string from cam to idler, a slight cam lean towards rollerguide is preferred.
If it leans away from rollerguide, typically you will have to shoot inside of center by quite a bit due to the load transfer compounding this lean, which will cause the issue you're experiencing.
At full draw, idler needs to be straight.
If top of idler leans right at full draw, you will experience the left tear, and will have to shoot inside of center, causing the issues you're having.
Idler lean can be corrected by twisting one side of your harness, but cam lean usually requires a new limb.
You might reverse the limbs and hope the top limb, (now bottom limb), will carry the cam, and use the splits to 'fix' the bottom limb, (now the top).

I like seeing a bow tuning discussion for a change.

Appears that idler is leaning toward rollerguide even at full draw. Also shot broadheads this morning and impact is about 2 inches right of field points at about 18 yards. Also appears that arrow would be a right tear based on angle it hits the target but haven't shot thru paper again. Should I adjust the idler cable yokes first and then go back to walk back tuning?

The broadheads hit at exact same height as field points so I should leave rest height and nock point alone?