Ford abs question ?

[ROCKET]

I have a 2000 ford excursion 4x4 v10, and a few weeks back I was backing up in the pasture and the abs light came on, and the OD light flashes "off" on the gear shifter, I drove it home ( 3 miles ) with no issues. The next day the check engine light came on so I took it to local parts house and came back as a speed sensor, I replaced sensor and haven't driven it until yesterday, the abs light is still on and check engine light was still on and began running rough and not shifting correctly, so I pulled in and had the guys read the code and they said it could possibly be another sensor causing all the trouble. I stared the truck and drove it home and everything ran smooth, fast forward to today and my wife didn't know about the issue and said she drove it about 30 miles and the check engine light came on and it began running rough again, with the abs light on as well, any thoughts would be appreciated .


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[Johnny Dangerr]

I do not think the ABS can make your car run badly.

Never heard of it happening...............

That old I would bet you need the ABS computer...........

[Radar]

Be cheaper on you if you took it to a good shop and let them diagnose it. You probably bought a speed sensor you did not need.

[RifleBowPistol]

I have a 2000 ford excursion 4x4 v10, and a few weeks back I was backing up in the pasture and the abs light came on, and the OD light flashes "off" on the gear shifter, I drove it home ( 3 miles ) with no issues. The next day the check engine light came on so I took it to local parts house and came back as a speed sensor, I replaced sensor and haven't driven it until yesterday, the abs light is still on and check engine light was still on and began running rough and not shifting correctly, so I pulled in and had the guys read the code and they said it could possibly be another sensor causing all the trouble. I stared the truck and drove it home and everything ran smooth, fast forward to today and my wife didn't know about the issue and said she drove it about 30 miles and the check engine light came on and it began running rough again, with the abs light on as well, any thoughts would be appreciated .


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Does the speedo work correctly all of the time? The rough running, is probably a bad coil, with the rain and moister we have had lately, a coil is a high likely hood. If the speedo does not work intermittently, I would say the speed sensor in the rear axle. I would also check the wires going down to the speed sensor, it is common for them to get ripped loose. The rear will have one sensor in the center of the axle housing, the front, will have a sensor at each corner. If you can get your hands on a scanner, watch pids, look at all three speed sensors. Make sure they all read the same.
Other things that are cheap fixes, that can cause transmission issues, are the button on the end of the shift lever. Also the shift lever it's self, has wires in it, they commonly break down at the base of the lever. You have to pull the column shroud of, then check the wires to make sure they are not broken. Another possible problem is the transmission range sensor, again getting a scanner is the best way to check it is with a scanner.

[Ronnie]

The abs light on my'99 has been on for at least 15 years. Oh and the ck. Eng. Light

[Ronnie]

RBP you are a pretty sharp dude

[texaspacker]

Ants or rodents.

Does the speedo work correctly all of the time? The rough running, is probably a bad coil, with the rain and moister we have had lately, a coil is a high likely hood. If the speedo does not work intermittently, I would say the speed sensor in the rear axle. I would also check the wires going down to the speed sensor, it is common for them to get ripped loose. The rear will have one sensor in the center of the axle housing, the front, will have a sensor at each corner. If you can get your hands on a scanner, watch pids, look at all three speed sensors. Make sure they all read the same.
Other things that are cheap fixes, that can cause transmission issues, are the button on the end of the shift lever. Also the shift lever it's self, has wires in it, they commonly break down at the base of the lever. You have to pull the column shroud of, then check the wires to make sure they are not broken. Another possible problem is the transmission range sensor, again getting a scanner is the best way to check it is with a scanner.

RBP got it with wiring issues. I just wanted to add it's getting cold and things are looking for a nice warm place to hide out. Or if your vehicle has been sitting for awhile also. Don't forget ants, dirt dobbers, rats, mice and other insects and vermin may have eaten or made a home/nest in something electrical, wiring or even non electrical parts/"stuff".
I did auto electrical & interior work for years but worked mainly on GM products.
The ABS light is usually NOT an issue. If you stomp on your breaks you'll probably skid just like in the olden days instead of your breaks pulsating you to a lovely controlled stop. Replacing the ABS control box/ module or what ever it's called nowadays is going be big bucks.

[sierracharlie338]

The ABS module is out in my 08 F150. The part alone at any repair place is about 750. Then another 500 MINIMUM to put the SOB in and program it.

[Radar]

Needs to be hooked up to a real scan tool and diagnosed, if you do not have experience with diagnostic equipment you are not going to have much luck as a DIY deal. Scan tools that read pids are not cheap and most will not loan one out.

I doubt you will get far by going to the "parts house" as they will have you doing the plug and pray deal. That is plug in another new part and pray it fixes it.

I been selling diagnostic equipment for 15 years.

[RifleBowPistol]

RBP you are a pretty sharp dude

Ford dealer tech for a long time, last two dealership jobs were Ford truck dealers. Then I have owned nothing but Fords, quite a few Ford trucks. Been working on, them for a long time. Most of the stuff I get to work on, is the stuff, the other guys can't fix. I don't usually get the easy good paying jobs.

[double bogey]

Some of the scanners wont read which sensor it is. May have changed the wrong one.

[ROCKET]

Some of the scanners wont read which sensor it is. May have changed the wrong one.

I'm sure, truck doesn't get driven much so in taking after Christmas to have a real scanner hooked up to trace issue


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[RifleBowPistol]

One more thing. Get up on top of the engine, find the PCV, check both ends of the plastic tube, there is a rubber piece at each end, those get soft and gooey after time. When it happens, the engine will suck a hole in the rubber. Check that first for the running rough. If either rubber end is soft or you obviously find a hole in the rubber, most often at the intake manifold elbow end, where it steps up to 3/4" from 3/8". If it's soft, replace the PCV hose. You can either buy the hose assembly from Ford. I will also buy the rubber ends from a auto parts store and just replace those, when I can find them. I have also gone to Ford dealers and got them to find the cheapest PCV hose assembly, with the same rubber ends and buy that one, steal the rubber ends off and replace those. Some of the Ford PCV hose assemblies are $160, the cheaper ones are around $30.

If the PCV hose is not leaking, you might see if you can find any other vacuum leaks. Then probably pull codes and see if there are any misfire codes. Likely there will not be, those computers, rarely set a misfire code, when the vehicle is actually having a misfire or just flat out dead cylinder. But if it missing and no vacuum leak, you most likely have a bad coil or coils. Figuring out which one or ones are bad, took me a long time to figure out. But I finally found a way. If you pull all of the coils, remove the boots from the coils, then twist the spring out of the coil and look at the flat blade up inside the coil. If any coils have white, light gray or greenish corrosion on the blade, any corrosion at all. It is best to replace that coil, is has gotten moister up in it. Sometimes I will find only one with corrosion, other times I find all but one have corrosion. The Borg Warner coils are the best deal in my opinion, they have lifetime warranty, all of the others have a year at the most some only three months. I only use Borg Warner coils. When I worked at the last dealer, my V10 had a miss, when it was only 2 months old. We had a lot of rain and moister in the air for the first few months I owned the truck. I had to replace two coils. Then within a year, I had to replace one and then the other coil, that I put in the truck three months after I got the truck. Most of the time, it was number 5 and number 10, that went bad. I have replace those two coils about three times each. That is the reason, I only buy Borg Warner, I don't want to keep buying high priced Motorcraft coils, ever few years. Since I put the Borg Warner coils in the back of the engine, I have not had any problems with them.

My truck has over 200,000 miles, it's a 02 model. The coils and warped rotors and 50,000, to 60,000 mile ball joint replacements have been the main problems with the truck.

[double bogey]

If you were closer I have a reader that does abs. Also misfires, I think everything. My older one doesn't read abs, and auto zone said they were not permitted to read abs. So I got one that would, and read correct sensor and replaced one of the fronts. Still spent less than changing all 3 sensors.

I just used mine to read a #2 cyl misfire. I caused it by spilling oil while filling. oil ran down and soaked the coil boot and spark plug. Pulled the coil and boot, blew out the hole the plug is in, cleaned the hole, pulled the plug and replaced plug and boot after. Cylinder misfire is also often caused by coolant leaking from the intake, and valve cover gaskets leaking oil.

thought I would add that as I found this data while looking for misfire causes.