Finally got my lathe

[GrapeApe]

I don't use range rods, I have a full set of gage pins that I use. Ive seen range rods that get bent over time with their length. Plus the pins have uses beyond setting the barrel true on it's bore, the range rods have only one purpose.

[rut-ro]

What else are you looking for ? I have a buddy that just got of the custom gun business and may be willing to part with some of his stuff.

[txfireguy2003]

What else are you looking for ? I have a buddy that just got of the custom gun business and may be willing to part with some of his stuff.

Honestly, I'm too new to even know. I know I can use reamers, action wrenches, insert tooling, action truing arbor, micrometers, dial indicators, thread gauges etc. January depends on what he's looking to part with and how much he wants for it.

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[rut-ro]

I’ll ask him

[txfireguy2003]

I’ll ask him

Thanks.

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[Stick1]

So I've read about this, but I'm confused. How do you check runout on the ID of a tube with grooves? Seems like the indicator tip would be bouncing off each land and falling into each groove as you rotate the spindle. I jyst don't get it.

The range rods just make more sense to me, but I do see where there could be some inconsistency. I was looking at the Grizzly rods from PTG that cover a range of calibers with one rod, all you have to do is buy the correct bushings. That should be cheaper than a caliber specific rod for each bore diameter.

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You generally want to indicate in the groove, as that is the "bore". Range rods can be somewhat useful in dialing in the muzzle end as you are cutting your crown right at the datum point it is giving you. However, they have some real drawbacks on the chamber end. Knowing that no bore is truly "straight", and that most range rods are tapered to self center in the bore, you will get radically different results by simply facing the part or any micro burr left from the previous operation. After all that you're still indicating outside the barrel and miles away from the throat of your chamber - where it counts.

If I remember correctly, grizzly makes a non-tapered version that eliminates that issue. Your tailstock better be dead nuts to get good results with that one. It is also piloted, which means you have some inherent slop so that it can fit in the bore, and more slop so it can fit on the range rod without binding. Both versions are indicating off the lands, which are often not identical in profile.

A good indicator will let you index exactly where YOU want to, on the bore itself, with no slop in the system and will let you see any irregularities on the lands. You can use that same tool on every barrel you cut from now on no matter what caliber it is.

[WTucker]

You generally want to indicate in the groove, as that is the "bore". Range rods can be somewhat useful in dialing in the muzzle end as you are cutting your crown right at the datum point it is giving you. However, they have some real drawbacks on the chamber end. Knowing that no bore is truly "straight", and that most range rods are tapered to self center in the bore, you will get radically different results by simply facing the part or any micro burr left from the previous operation. After all that you're still indicating outside the barrel and miles away from the throat of your chamber - where it counts.

If I remember correctly, grizzly makes a non-tapered version that eliminates that issue. Your tailstock better be dead nuts to get good results with that one. It is also piloted, which means you have some inherent slop so that it can fit in the bore, and more slop so it can fit on the range rod without binding. Both versions are indicating off the lands, which are often not identical in profile.

A good indicator will let you index exactly where YOU want to, on the bore itself, with no slop in the system and will let you see any irregularities on the lands. You can use that same tool on every barrel you cut from now on no matter what caliber it is.

I am in the same situation as the OP. I already have a Mitutoyo with the small body, and will probably be purchasing an Interapid with the long stem. To me this way will be more reliable like you said, and I wont be needing bushings for every caliber.

[-HIC-]

Luke,

Congrats on the new toy . Call around to local gunsmiths as they sometimes have a bunch of take-off or trash rifle barrels squirrelled away in a corner. You should be able to pick them up in bulk for $25-30 each. Also, watch videos by Greg Tannel as his tooling is what many top GS's use.
https://www.gretanrifles.com/tooling

Personally, I would call Pete Pieper in Hempstead. Introduce yourself, you can use my name as a referral if necessary. Inquire if he has any factory take-off barrels for sale. First class GS who loves bowhunting http://www.precisionbarrelwork.com/

I have several other GS friends I can refer you to, I just have to remember them as I have CRS .. Can't Remember Schlitz

Congrats man, while I hesitate to say this (Because I have work sitting in his shop), I agree completely with Blake on chatting with Pete. I changed up my plans on actions for a build he is doing and ended up hand delivering a Defiance action to him a few days ago- I had been leery in the first place mailing a Manners stock and Bartlien barrel to someone I did not personally know (I took the plunge because Blake recommended him and seems to know a thing or two ). Pete is the type of guy you can instantly be friends with, he seems like a stand up straight shooter and I was instantly put at ease. I know he is a busy guy but any information you can get from a man with his background is worth its weight in gold. I have had many, have many and have shot even more custom rifles - there is something special about being able to shake the hand of the man that crafted it. I can't even begin to imagine how it would feel to be the one with blood and sweat invested in the rifle everyone at the range is oogling over!! Maybe one day!

[txfireguy2003]

I'm really excited about it, but I know I've got a lot to learn as well. I'll be building a couple of fixtures before I start on any gun work, but honestly, from what I've read, and the videos I've watched over the last few years, it doesn't seem like rocket surgery. Sure there's a bunch of levers and knobs and wheels, but once you know what they all do, the rest seems to be knowing how to measure, and being able to look up or calculate the correct speeds and feeds, dimensions etc. I do have one take off barrel here at the house that never shot worth a dang, so I'll practice on that some as well. I think the hardest skill I've seen is picking up an existing thread to clean it up, and even that makes sense to me.

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[hoythunter28]

As promised, a few more pictures now that she's in place. I owe my three buddies rifles for helping get it inside, but it's worth it.


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I am just glad we got in there without hurting the lathe or us LOL!! Cant wait to hang out and see the progress you make with it buddy!

[txfireguy2003]

I am just glad we got in there without hurting the lathe or us LOL!! Cant wait to hang out and see the progress you make with it buddy!

Yessir, appreciate the help for sure. You're welcome to come over anytime, just make sure I'm here first, Kaitlin gets a little nervous and trigger happy when I'm not.

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[hoythunter28]

Yessir, appreciate the help for sure. You're welcome to come over anytime, just make sure I'm here first, Kaitlin gets a little nervous and trigger happy when I'm not.

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Lol, you wouldnt have to worry about that.

[RifleBowPistol]

Well, if you have never had a lathe or mill before, you are going to be in heaven for a while. I bought a three in one, lathe, mill and drill many years ago. I was able to make so many parts that just don't exist or extremely hard to find, that or modify parts. I have modified existing pieces to make them into something that will adapt one component to another that were not made to be fitted together. Having a good lathe, mill, boring bar, rotary table, lots of end mills, cut off tools, ball mills, key way cutters, fly cutters, dove tail cutters, then many different bit holders and bits for the lathe. Will allow you to do so much. I have figured out a lot on my own, then every once in a while, I see something someone else is doing and get new ideas. I since bought a Bridgeport mill. The Bridgeport, plus the rotary table and sometimes the boring bar, can be some amazing tools to use. I have to admit, I use my mill so often, I don't event realize it. I probably use my lathe as often as I use my common length 3/8" drive ratchet.

Then you will need a nice TIG welder to complete things. Then you can be a metal working god or at least be able to do a hell of a lot more than most realize can be done with a small shop.

[cattlelackranch]

That's pretty cool.

Metal work of any kind has always fascinated me.

Will you keep this thread updated and ongoing ? I'd like to watch your progress.

[txfireguy2003]

Well, if you have never had a lathe or mill before, you are going to be in heaven for a while. I bought a three in one, lathe, mill and drill many years ago. I was able to make so many parts that just don't exist or extremely hard to find, that or modify parts. I have modified existing pieces to make them into something that will adapt one component to another that were not made to be fitted together. Having a good lathe, mill, boring bar, rotary table, lots of end mills, cut off tools, ball mills, key way cutters, fly cutters, dove tail cutters, then many different bit holders and bits for the lathe. Will allow you to do so much. I have figured out a lot on my own, then every once in a while, I see something someone else is doing and get new ideas. I since bought a Bridgeport mill. The Bridgeport, plus the rotary table and sometimes the boring bar, can be some amazing tools to use. I have to admit, I use my mill so often, I don't event realize it. I probably use my lathe as often as I use my common length 3/8" drive ratchet.

Then you will need a nice TIG welder to complete things. Then you can be a metal working god or at least be able to do a hell of a lot more than most realize can be done with a small shop.

Yeah, thats what I figured. I'm sure a mill will come sooner or later. I've never done any TIG welding, but I'm pretty fair with a MIG. I've already seen things that I could use a good mill for, but that'll just have to wait I guess.

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