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Home Foundation Repair Conerns!?!?

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    Home Foundation Repair Conerns!?!?

    Ok, I'll try to condense this down so it doesn't become a novel. We're in the process of selling our home and purchasing a new one. Upon the inspection of our current home, the buyer's inspector noted a small crack in the south exterior wall of the brick. I told him that crack was their when I purchased this home 8 years ago and has not changed. In turn the buyers requested we pay for and provide a structural engineer's report. His report came back and he told us that the north and south of our home needed foundation repair and he required 8 piers be put in, 4 on each side.

    Fast forward to yesterday: A foundation repair company had been secured for us to do the work. I was under the impression the company came out to survey our home for the work the engineer required. I called the company yesterday to better understand what they were going to and found out they've never been to our house and are just going to show up on the 30th to start the work. I asked if they were installing the "piers" to just stabilize the slab or if they are actually going to "jack it up". He said they are going to jack it up; so I ask how far? He said he didn't know and that they would put a level inside the house on the floor and take it up until it was close to level.

    Ok, this house has zero cracks in the drywall, ceiling, door frames, window frames, etc. All drywall and ceiling is the original material. This house is now 22 years old, and I've owned it for 8. I went around this evening putting my big 4' level perpendicular into both the north and south walls on the floor and attached are the pictures of what I got. All pictures are in different locations. The north wall is along my garage and south wall is along two bedrooms. I've put the level on both exterior walls and the are plump (vertical) also.

    I'm extremely confused as to, if my slab needs repair and needs to be jacked up until it's level, BUT the dang floor is already level...What gives?

    ANY advice or what you would do would be greatly appreciated!
    Attached Files

    #2
    I would put a stop to any work immediately. Sounds like a bunch of un necessary work.

    At least get a second opinion.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk

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      #3
      Pm sent

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        #4
        Several things. Even if a few doors close on their own. Tell the buyers agent to take the buyers elsewhere...if they dont like the house...they can go buy another one. Monolithic slabs are dynamic and move with dynamic soil conditions.

        Piers hydraulically pump at different rates and therefore cause more harm than good in the long run...but if the buyer gets a warm fuzzy...inspector gets a warm fuzzy...bank gets a warm fuzzy...and the loan goes through. Get piered (however idiotic)...get inspected...get paid...get gone.

        There is a structural engineer tolerance for a settled house. A house can be settled, cracked or even listed entirely...so long as its within tolerance of the engineers society then its habitable. Jacking a slab will lead to plumbing and sewer pipe breaks...as well can really bad structural issues. However if no busted sewer pipes have been identified...and no busted water pipes...tell the buyer to find another house and disclose the listing of the slab to the next buyer.

        One of my rental houses lists 3.5" from front left to rear right. Garage floor should have 1" drop from back to front...mine is level. I had 8 bids to level. Cheapest was $5800. My structural engineer designed one of the pier systems from leveling company. I was at a loss for third party uninterested guidance. I hired a former associate professor from TAMU Construction Science College...for $500 for a verbal report...he said do nothing...poop drains...no major structural integrity loss...dont tunnel to repair broken sewer pipes but hammer through concrete floor and repair. Removing soil below slab will impair subslab structural integrity. Saved me $5300. I still tunneled and was dumb...I ended up hammer drilling holes near the repaired breaks and back filled 2 pallets of play sand under my slab from the top. 1 1/2 pallets on Friday maxed out full. It rained saturday...monday I squeezed another 1/2 pallet in.

        Another property had 2" drop from expansion joint slab crack to back porch. Front half of house was level. House was corner lot and builder had installed 11 irrigation zones...all in the front yard...none in the back. Homebuilder was hydrating soil in front and not in back...front stayed swoll while back soil dried and shrank. I added irrigation system in back and disclosed list...well within current engineer tolerance.

        Disclose disclose disclose.

        Do not level a house already within tolerance!
        God bless tolerances.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Todd-ty729 View Post
          I would put a stop to any work immediately. Sounds like a bunch of un necessary work.

          At least get a second opinion.

          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk
          Agreed. It doesn't sound like an issue to me other than the SE's report. I'm curious how large the crack in the masonry is and I would bet it is wider at the top.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Bill M View Post
            Agreed. It doesn't sound like an issue to me other than the SE's report. I'm curious how large the crack in the masonry is and I would bet it is wider at the top.
            Hey Bill, I've attached a couple of pictures of both exterior walls they say need the work done on and the only exterior crack he noted. The crack stops where the picture ends and does not go all the way to the slab.

            I forgot to mention that I just had additional driveway poured last year and they now have to cut Four 30" x 30" holes into the driveway to be able to get underneath that wall at the garage.
            Attached Files

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              #7
              As a home inspector myself I would recommend having this foundation checked out too. The crack in the picture is more of a shearing type crack where it actually cut through the bricks. Normal settling cracks will mostly follow the mortar joints. The frieze board has also seperated in the picture you provided. That along with the shearing crack tells me that some structural movement has occurred. I would follow the engineers recommendations.

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                #8
                I'd get another structural engineer to come take a look.

                Or better yet, I'd just tell the buyers that I'm not doing it.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Throwin' Darts View Post
                  I'd get another structural engineer to come take a look.

                  Or better yet, I'd just tell the buyers that I'm not doing it.
                  This. ^^^^

                  I've owned homes where the brick had cracked also but it wasn't even noted by the inspectors and there was nothing at all wrong with the slab other than normal movement. I'd bet the brick isn't a solid brick. You won't find many homes without some mortar cracking and possibly brick especially where you are. Understand I'm not an engineer but a former home builder that has dealt with soil mechanics during my career.

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                    #10
                    I WOULD NOT DO THE REPAIRS!! lET THE NEW BUYER DO IT SO IT IS NOT ON YOUR BILL.
                    REDUCE THE SELLING COST. FROM WHAT I CAN SEE IT LOOKS LIKE A DRAINAGE ISSUE.
                    IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY HEAVE AND PIERS DO NOT FIX HEAVE ISSUES ONLY WORSEN THE ISSUES. I SEE FRIEZE BOARD ROTATION AND THE STAIR STEP BRICK MORTAR CRACK IS GENERALLY HEAVE RELATED. HORIZONTAL CRACKING IS MORE ALONG THE LINES OF SETTLEMENT WHICH WOULD JUSTIFY PIERS. MY TWO CENTS BUT BE WARY OF FOUNDATION CONTRACTORS

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                      #11
                      Sounds like you just got jerked around by a dumb engineer.

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