Replacing water heater connections

[hillcountryhunter]

After reading a little of the other water heater thread I feel a little more confident in my up coming project. It appears to me that when the house was built three years ago, the plumber did not use dielectric fittings. I am guessing the current fittings are galvanized and are corroding because of the chemical reaction to the copper lines.

My question is whether or not there is anything I should be cautious of with doing this myself? Anything particular I should do to keep this from happening again?

[teamfirstcast]

replace everything from the tank up with a longer SS braided hose, no galvanized pipe needed there.

[friscopaint]

replace everything from the tank up with a longer SS braided hose, no galvanized pipe needed there.

I do exactly this. Also, shut off water to the house, and cut both copper supply lines and place 1/4 turn valves. I've used the shark grip, cut pipe smooth, clean and smooth with emory cloth and then just pop them on. You can then turn on water to house while you work and makes this and all other future change outs a piece of cake. If not positive on pipe size take a cut piece to H.D. with you so you get right size valve. Also, make sure threading is correct for the braided lines you buy. It's very simple. Make sure when cutting the copper lines to go slow and easy with your pipe cutter so you don't deform the copper piping otherwise the shark grip fitting, or compression fitting, won't fit well. Lot's of rotations with the cutter and making small adjustments on the cutting wheel. Cut as far away from the wall as possible but not too close to soldered joints, not even where they soldered and cut won't be clean and smooth, need clean pipe for the rollers on your pipe cutter. You won't need a huge pipe cutter either, use the smallest you can get away with in close quarters.

[Todd-ty729]

Wow, that looks nasty.

If you can get the old galvanized nipples off the tank put new on and use a proper dielectric union.

Also get rid of that flexible copper stuff. Anything flexible is more likely to leak including those braided lines.

Also not a fan of shark bite fittings. They work in a pinch but only temporary. If you have time do it better.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk

[berettadave]

You can also use brass nipples in place of the galvanized nipples. The brass will also get rid of the electrolysis issues.

Dave

[hillcountryhunter]

My first thought was to just disconnect the flex from the galvanized and replace all the fittings from that point down. Now y'all have me thinking I should replace everything. My next question is based on the picture below, where should I cut the copper line to replace everything back to the tank?

I'm a total rookie at plumbing. If this was electrical I would be all over it.

[Puggy625]

In for this. Going to be doing mine soon.

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[cj7zrcool]

You've got ugly nipples.

[Tbar]

That has got to be a 10 year + water heater.

Replace EVERYTHING from the valves(new valves) to the floor(new water heater).

Get a pan to go under the WH if you don't already have one.

[hillcountryhunter]

That has got to be a 10 year + water heater.

Replace EVERYTHING from the valves(new valves) to the floor(new water heater).

Get a pan to go under the WH if you don't already have one.

Nope...it is actually less than three years old. House was built and finished May of 2014. Water heater appears to be in good shape and has pan and all the other stuff.

[Todd-ty729]

You have some extra room on the hot side between the "T" that the shock absorber is on and the flexible part but not much room on the cold.

You will need to use a torch to remove the flex from the cold side and might as well do the same on the hot side.

If you are not able to use a torch I would not recommend attempting this. I do not see any other way to do it.