What would be causing mold to grow on my HVAC Vents? WE change filter religiously with the expensive ones. Keep the house about 74 in summer and 67 in winter. House is about 8 years old. No other mold that we have found.
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Mold on HVAC vents?
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Originally posted by Todd-ty729 View PostThis is going to sound strange but your ac system is not running enough.
Not removing enough humidity from the house.
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Sounds like the system is oversized. An oversized system will short cycle and not remove enough moisture since it doesn't run long enough at one time.
The system needs to run longer to pull out more latent heat. Your thermostat only sees sensible heat. The fix could get expensive. If you have mold on the registers there is more than likely mold inside the ductwork and maybe in the condensate drain pan at the evaporator coil.Last edited by muzzlebrake; 01-15-2017, 08:21 PM.
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If you mean on the supply vent registers it could be what is stated above due to oversized tonnage/short cycling or possibly a because the register and supply plenum box is not sealed to drywall ceiling, this can allow warm/moist attic air to leak through and condense on metal supply register.
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Originally posted by Chef View PostWhat would be causing mold to grow on my HVAC Vents? WE change filter religiously with the expensive ones. Keep the house about 74 in summer and 67 in winter. House is about 8 years old. No other mold that we have found.
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Originally posted by LFD2037 View PostI'd like to know why as I use the expensive ones from HD/Lowe's myself.
All units require a certain amount of air flo to operate correctly. I'm just going to use numbers. A 5 ton on average is 1800 cfm of air needed to flow through the coil. So when looking at this all units show how much static it can have to have this air flow. Most units around .7 is max. There are some that can go up to 1 but average is .7.
Lots of coils have a static drop of .25 to .35. So this is deducted from the .7. Let's split the differences and say .3. So we have .4 left for the duct system. So when designing a system you want 2/3 of that drop on the supply and a 1/3 on the return side. So we have .133 to play with on the return side.
Now we look at filters. They have a drop across them. So let's say your filter is in the unit and it's in a closet. This means you have one filter. So you need to find a filter with less then .133 drop and that includes grills.
When figureimg filters you should do them at 300 fpm. But if it's a single filter it's done at 500 fpm.
So let's look at the filters your buying. Merv 8 is a common filter. So let's look at this 5 ton unit average filter is 20x25. So according to the spec sheet I use this filter at 500 fpm is good for 1750 cfm. Little shy but close enough you won't know. But the static drop is .27 on a 2 inch filter. It's .42 on a 1 inch filter. So as you can see we have used up all our static drop just on the good filters.
So what happens. We don't move enough air across coil. So coil runs cold. This means the Freon will not turn to a gas before leaving coil. So liquid gets back to compressor. This causes oil to migrate from compressor. So it premature failure.
All from a filter. Lol. Crazy isn't it. I hope that makes since. Oh and that's brand new filter. Wait ti it starts to get dirty
Sorry long explanation I didn't know any other way to explainLast edited by enewman; 01-16-2017, 02:11 PM.
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Let me add. How do you know with out doing a ton of research if you have an air flow problem. And this is just a couple. Have you ever had a compressor replaced with less then 5 years in service. have you ever had the compressor replaced more then once in 10 years. If you have a high effeniency unit that has the ecm motor. Have you had to replace the control mod on the back of motor with in a few years. And have you replaced more then one while under warrenty at all. That motor and mod unless it gets hit by a voltage spike is a 15 year motor.
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