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    #31
    You really need to go by Harbor Freight and get a cheap meter that measures DC volts and current.

    Jump the car off and once it is running check the voltage at the battery. Should be real close to 14V. If is, them you can just about rule out the alternator. If it's down around 12.5 or so your alternator is bad.

    If the alternator is charging, then disconnect the positive lead from the battery. Set the meter up to read milli-amps and measure between the battery cable and the battery post. There shouldn't be more than 20-50 milli-amps of current flowing with the car off and all the doors closed. If there is you have a draw. Start pulling fuses until you get down to the 20-50 range. Come back and tell us what you found.

    Most folks at the parts stores are jack wagons that won't be able to help you.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Bazo View Post
      I have another question. I've had the battery on the charger and it's got enought to start the van. If I hookit up and let the can idle in the driveway, how long will it run if the alternator is bad?
      I've never done this so I'm not sure how long it will take. But yes, you can do it. Turn the head lights on. It will speed up the process.

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        #33
        Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
        You really need to go by Harbor Freight and get a cheap meter that measures DC volts and current.

        Jump the car off and once it is running check the voltage at the battery. Should be real close to 14V. If is, them you can just about rule out the alternator. If it's down around 12.5 or so your alternator is bad.

        If the alternator is charging, then disconnect the positive lead from the battery. Set the meter up to read milli-amps and measure between the battery cable and the battery post. There shouldn't be more than 20-50 milli-amps of current flowing with the car off and all the doors closed. If there is you have a draw. Start pulling fuses until you get down to the 20-50 range. Come back and tell us what you found.

        Most folks at the parts stores are jack wagons that won't be able to help you.
        This is really the best way.

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          #34
          Let the battery charge fully on the battery charger. Connect to van. Start van. Do you get the battery light? If you do,then your problem is either the alternator or the battery but probably the alternator. Auto zone or Oreillys can check them both.

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            #35
            Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
            You really need to go by Harbor Freight and get a cheap meter that measures DC volts and current.

            Jump the car off and once it is running check the voltage at the battery. Should be real close to 14V. If is, them you can just about rule out the alternator. If it's down around 12.5 or so your alternator is bad.

            If the alternator is charging, then disconnect the positive lead from the battery. Set the meter up to read milli-amps and measure between the battery cable and the battery post. There shouldn't be more than 20-50 milli-amps of current flowing with the car off and all the doors closed. If there is you have a draw. Start pulling fuses until you get down to the 20-50 range. Come back and tell us what you found.

            Most folks at the parts stores are jack wagons that won't be able to help you.
            I read something just a few minutes ago that said the same thing. This will be something I try out. I hope it's a simple fix but these days it never is.

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              #36
              Originally posted by cashcropper View Post
              Let the battery charge fully on the battery charger. Connect to van. Start van. Do you get the battery light? If you do,then your problem is either the alternator or the battery but probably the alternator. Auto zone or Oreillys can check them both.
              No, there was no battery light that came on. When I put the new battery in last nigtht there were no lights that came up.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Bazo View Post
                I read something just a few minutes ago that said the same thing. This will be something I try out. I hope it's a simple fix but these days it never is.
                The way they build them nowdays, the durn spare tire could be low.

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                  #38
                  It does have a charging system light that will come on if the charging syatem is not charging. That light hasn't come on.

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                    #39
                    You have something on like an interior light, short circuit, or a bad battery.

                    Also, the first/easiest/simplest way to check the alternator, if you can start the car, is get the car running. Unhook one terminal on the battery. If car dies alternator is bad. The main purpose of the battery is to start vehicle. Once started and running the electrical system relies on the alternator for all power.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Doc Peter View Post
                      You have something on like an interior light, short circuit, or a bad battery.

                      Also, the first/easiest/simplest way to check the alternator, if you can start the car, is get the car running. Unhook one terminal on the battery. If car dies alternator is bad. The main purpose of the battery is to start vehicle. Once started and running the electrical system relies on the alternator for all power.
                      That's what I thought too but then I read where that can actually cause damage to the electrical system.

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                        #41
                        if you have a volt meter, set it to amps and move the probes to the amp connections on the meter. next, with the key OFF,unhook the negative terminal from the battery post. touch the positive lead of the volt meter to the terminal and the negative lead of the meter to the negative battery post. with the battery off you should around .01 to .1 amps. the pc will pull a little current when the vehicle is off. you see more than that then you have a short somewhere.

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                          #42
                          I figured out what the issue is. The fuel pump is not turning off. As soon as the battery is connected the fuel pump starts running. So it’s either a bad fuel pump relay or an issue with the TIPM. I hope it's just the relay.

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                            #43
                            I just pulled the fuse to the fuel pump and let it sit and cleaned it out a little bit. Now the pump shuts off like it needs to. I still think I need to replace the relay.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by Bazo View Post
                              I just pulled the fuse to the fuel pump and let it sit and cleaned it out a little bit. Now the pump shuts off like it needs to. I still think I need to replace the relay.
                              \



                              if it sticks once itll do it again...lucky you could get to it, most vehicles have it buried behind and under the dash for some reason....on the passenger side

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Good deal. Glad you found it.

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