I'll try to snap a pic or quick video this evening. I believe the length of the joist is 24ft. Nailed directly to the same side of two joining rafters and sitting on top of the garage wall frame.
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Replacing a garage rafter?
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Originally posted by bowhuntntxn View PostYou could probably get by with adding a scab to the cracked area. Get a 10 ft. board, build a jack board from 2x4s, lift the cracked rafter to straight, and screw the new piece onto it. Don't be afraid to use plenty of screws, because you don't want the weight to make it sag again.
That will eliminate the need to cut angles on the longer board to get it to fit into place.
Be very careful when jacking the rafter, and you might even want to actually screw your jack boards to the rafter so they don't shoot off. The sudden loss of support could actually cause a collapse.
If you have someone that could help you, that would be the safest route.
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Originally posted by tigerscowboy View PostOh good Lord. Are you kidding us?
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Originally posted by captainsling View PostNope. They do it on the coast for some of the houses on the islands. My bosses house had it on every floor joist on their first floor. House was built like a tank. When it was first built the City of Port Aransas was going to make it their command post during storms.
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Originally posted by Death from Above View PostAre those 2x6 ceiling joist 2'oc?
Not sure on the spacing, maybe 6ft. Definitely 2x12s. House was built in 1992 if that helps.
I'm seeing online where some have sandwiched the cracked board between two others and used plenty of hardware to secure it. Also seeing where a 2x4 is nailed to the bottom edge of the joist. Should I just sandwich it or would adding the bottom edge 2x4 be worth it too?
I agree about the weight. I've already pulled down dang near a pallet, and there's still 4-5 sheets up there.
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