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Installing Crown Moulding

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    #16
    Originally posted by JayB View Post
    500' should be enough to complete a 10 x 10 room

    The real key to crown is that you treat the saw wall like it is the house wall and the saw bed like it is the ceiling....that means it is all upside down.
    That is what I have heard, except the jig that I purchased eliminates the need for that. It holds the crown at the correct spring angle, and cuts it like its already on the wall.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wBI0P1COME

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      #17
      If you have plenty of material cut a few 1 ft pieces off and cut the angles you will need in the corners. Label them or number them on the wall below in pencil. I watched a trim carpenter train one of his new guys with this approach and it works really well. When you get started you will always be able to get those pieces to butt up against your next cut to keep it tight. It works much better than relying on your beer glazed eyes.

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        #18
        Measure twice........cut once.

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          #19
          Originally posted by BO-N-ARO View Post
          Measure twice........cut once.
          I completely agree, but I am not sure how to measure correctly whilst making the correct angled cut.

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            #20
            Get a coping saw. watch youtube videos

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              #21
              Lower those pieces on the column. They should line up then.
              I somewhat miss trim work

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                #22
                Cut it just like you would cut quarter round.

                Just think as if you are standing on the ceiling.....

                I prefer to cut it on the saw just like it will be sitting on the wall, (except upside down)

                I nail the center on the wall and then work the corners with a hammer and a block until they are tight.

                The five hundred foot estimate is just about right for the first room.
                Last edited by Atfulldraw; 07-26-2016, 11:05 AM.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
                  The corner blocks are the ticket.
                  I've never personally done it but this is what I've heard.
                  For columns and stuff you just have to be precise and once you figure the angle out then it's just a matter of measuring correctly. For measuring it reminds me of the shooting trick "aim small miss small". Don't measure to the nearest 1/8" and expect it to be tight.

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                    #24
                    Order several tubes each of 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" diameter paintable caulk. Think upside down and backwards on ceiling crown moulding. Just having a little fun folks. Good luck.

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                      #25
                      Go buy a good blade for you saw if you have not already. The ones that come with the saws are good all purpose blades. My wife installs our crown molding and does not use caulk when she is done. Paint covers any hairline gaps. She swears that a good blade is the key.

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                        #26
                        Dbl chk the molding itself to see if it's the 52 38 degree or all 45 degree. I think most is the 52/38. Then see if your jig has adjustments for that. I used the 52/38 and just cut it upside down on the miter saw. Practice on a stick and cut some inside and outside corners a ft or so long. Before nailing up your molding, take the corner pcs and fit em into and onto the corners and mark the wall and ceiling for fit so you dont have to guess during install. With the short pcs you can look at the back of the molding and make sure the angles are against the wall and ceiling correctly. Take a straight pc and make some marks in a few places all the way across to..sure helped me. I also took a sharpie and drew a line across the deck of my saw and labeled it for left and right to insure I had my saw turned the right way cuz I was too cheap to buy one of the jigs. Go ahead and mark your studs and joists also.
                        Spend a little time practicing and leave 3/16 (give or take) relief when measuring. It's a pain to get the fit right if you try to cut em the exact length of the wall. Oh, and caulk will make you look like a stud! Enjoy! Fingers Lives Matter!...so be safe.

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                          #27
                          Cope the inside corners.
                          its not hard and the joints look tighter and better than any degree'd cuts you'll ever make.

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                            #28
                            A coping saw is your best friend!

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by systemnt View Post
                              Cope the inside corners.
                              its not hard and the joints look tighter and better than any degree'd cuts you'll ever make.
                              This not all walls are straight and coping works well for this.

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                                #30
                                You're a home builder?

                                Tell your trim guy you are thinkin about putting the next one out for bid...


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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