Surfing 20 - 25 ft waves on South Beach below San Francisco with an old Coast Guard friend named Kevin. We rode the rip current out into this massive surf scene roughly 400 yards off the beach, riding a nasty heavy rip current that was sucking out next to a solid steel pier that was carrying a pipeline out, for rain water runoff (construction pier). I picked a wave that measured probably 30 - 35ft plus, a super set of 3 waves, rolling in of unbelievable height and size. Kevin was inside of me near the pier and yelled "Go Rob GO!" Winds were blowing offshore about 30 - 35 mph feathering these massive waves, which pushed the wave faces up, holding them before they blew over. I stroked and stroked rising up literally to the top of the wave face, blinded by spray coming off the nose of my board as this monster got near vertical and the weight of my body finally forced my board down as I made the drop. The drop was unreal, reaching speeds to points, my board vibrated as I hit the bottom, carving a massive bottom turn on the flat below the wave, leaning over hard with my right hand on the water, holding my body nearly horizontal as I turned at speed. It was at this point, I knew I had this wave but it was so **** big, I couldn't see the top. Well over 30 plus foot...which short circuited my mind and I dove down to bail out. This wave as sucking sand and shells off the bottom, and my attempt to dive under this monster was to no avail. It sucked me up and pitched me over hard, slamming on the bottom in literally 15 - 20ft of water, in a crushing blow. My arms and legs were literally getting pulled out away from my body as I pin wheeled under water not knowing which way was up. I came up for air only to find about a foot of foam on the surface before the next two following waves (3 wave set) blew over me, keeping me forced down and pin wheeling under water without a fresh breath of air. My lungs were screaming for air and when I finally popped up for air, I was shoved in toward the beach about 250 yards. I probably held my breath over a minute and a half.....trying like crazy to not panic and suck in water. It was close...very close...and my vision was blurry, with stars in my vision from the slam onto the sandy bottom. I had abrasions on my right shoulder, wearing a wet suit, so I know the force of that slam was pretty nasty. Had I hit the bottom head first, snapping my neck, I wouldn't have made it. After that ordeal, I was done for the day and I sat on the sand, shaking till the adrenalin cleared and my breathing returned to normal.
I've nearly drowned 4 times surfing. At one point in my life, I rode Mavericks, reefs and solid cliff walls along the Northern California coastline, when many simply sat on the beach and watched. I surfed with sea lions near a river inlet in Northern California, with many of these guys swimming right next to me. We had a nervous feeling there, and the sea lions were nervously out in the lineup, and left me alone, clearing out of the water and onto the beach quickly. The next morning, 2 sea lions were found dead on the beach with Great White bites and this beach was closed down for 2 weeks. I was fortunate these Great Whites didn't make a move on me and in retrospect, I now know why these sea lions cleared the water quickly.
I surfed Ano Neuvo State park, just inside the rocky outcrop island of Ano Neuvo...full of seals. This scene was Great White feeding grounds, year round. And the lure of catching perfect right point waves, pushing solid stand-up barrels, was what drove me into the water to surf. The thought of Great Whites was always on my mind, and I know I've been in the water, with a few looking for meals. The water in this area was a consistent 45 - 47 degrees cold. Ice cream headaches each time you went underwater.
20 - 23 years old......yup, I was a surfing left coast fool!
Lost a friend on Bastrop Bayou when he ran a jet boat onto the bank around that time. Probably a couple of years before.
I do believe I remember that. That would be about the same year that the late Tony Parton knocked his arm off by hitting his shoulder on the 523 bridge while on a slalom ski..
That bayou used to get seriously crazy... I hardly see anyone down there these days.
Surfing 20 - 25 ft waves on South Beach below San Francisco with an old Coast Guard friend named Kevin. We rode the rip current out into this massive surf scene roughly 400 yards off the beach, riding a nasty heavy rip current that was sucking out next to a solid steel pier that was carrying a pipeline out, for rain water runoff (construction pier). I picked a wave that measured probably 30 - 35ft plus, a super set of 3 waves, rolling in of unbelievable height and size. Kevin was inside of me near the pier and yelled "Go Rob GO!" Winds were blowing offshore about 30 - 35 mph feathering these massive waves, which pushed the wave faces up, holding them before they blew over. I stroked and stroked rising up literally to the top of the wave face, blinded by spray coming off the nose of my board as this monster got near vertical and the weight of my body finally forced my board down as I made the drop. The drop was unreal, reaching speeds to points, my board vibrated as I hit the bottom, carving a massive bottom turn on the flat below the wave, leaning over hard with my right hand on the water, holding my body nearly horizontal as I turned at speed. It was at this point, I knew I had this wave but it was so **** big, I couldn't see the top. Well over 30 plus foot...which short circuited my mind and I dove down to bail out. This wave as sucking sand and shells off the bottom, and my attempt to dive under this monster was to no avail. It sucked me up and pitched me over hard, slamming on the bottom in literally 15 - 20ft of water, in a crushing blow. My arms and legs were literally getting pulled out away from my body as I pin wheeled under water not knowing which way was up. I came up for air only to find about a foot of foam on the surface before the next two following waves (3 wave set) blew over me, keeping me forced down and pin wheeling under water without a fresh breath of air. My lungs were screaming for air and when I finally popped up for air, I was shoved in toward the beach about 250 yards. I probably held my breath over a minute and a half.....trying like crazy to not panic and suck in water. It was close...very close...and my vision was blurry, with stars in my vision from the slam onto the sandy bottom. I had abrasions on my right shoulder, wearing a wet suit, so I know the force of that slam was pretty nasty. Had I hit the bottom head first, snapping my neck, I wouldn't have made it. After that ordeal, I was done for the day and I sat on the sand, shaking till the adrenalin cleared and my breathing returned to normal.
I've nearly drowned 4 times surfing. At one point in my life, I rode Mavericks, reefs and solid cliff walls along the Northern California coastline, when many simply sat on the beach and watched. I surfed with sea lions near a river inlet in Northern California, with many of these guys swimming right next to me. We had a nervous feeling there, and the sea lions were nervously out in the lineup, and left me alone, clearing out of the water and onto the beach quickly. The next morning, 2 sea lions were found dead on the beach with Great White bites and this beach was closed down for 2 weeks. I was fortunate these Great Whites didn't make a move on me and in retrospect, I now know why these sea lions cleared the water quickly.
I surfed Ano Neuvo State park, just inside the rocky outcrop island of Ano Neuvo...full of seals. This scene was Great White feeding grounds, year round. And the lure of catching perfect right point waves, pushing solid stand-up barrels, was what drove me into the water to surf. The thought of Great Whites was always on my mind, and I know I've been in the water, with a few looking for meals. The water in this area was a consistent 45 - 47 degrees cold. Ice cream headaches each time you went underwater.
20 - 23 years old......yup, I was a surfing left coast fool!
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