Dodge coulda fixed this problem.

[ghostgoblin22]

Ived worked at big dealerships (salesman), and the service departments mark the labor costs up in ridiculous amounts, every service department ive worked with they've all been crooked in some way

[Mike D]

Man you are wayyyyyy more adventurous than I am.

I have a 2012 and installed the Genos Kit shortly after I bought it.

[eradicator]

I wish I had a dash to be able to remove!!

[wacm]

Just had my 2011 in for the same thing. I took it to a guy that took the blower motor out an put a sprayer in the duct work an washed the coil. Charged me $150 and it blows like its brand new. Just in case somebody is looking for an alternative way.

[Mconner]

Couldn't you remove fan motor and rinse coil with Waterhouse to unplug debris seems like it would be a lot less work, that is how you do a ford but I'm not sure, would be nice to know as a current dodge owner thanks and good job.

[BLACKFINTURKEY]

I need to do this too...

[Quackerbox]

i actually enjoy working on my own stuff, sometimes i get in over my head but the wife would never , ever hear me say that. Lol

hahahaaaaa!!!!

[Mertzon Man]

I admire your mechanical skills. I could never get it back together if I'd done that.

[RMW]

Couldn't you remove fan motor and rinse coil with Waterhouse to unplug debris seems like it would be a lot less work, that is how you do a ford but I'm not sure, would be nice to know as a current dodge owner thanks and good job.

Yep, use to do my 2002 ford 7.3 that way,took about 10 minutes. When ever the air stopped coming out the top vents in truck it was time for a cleaning.

[Airtech]

Cleaning the Dodge and Ford evaporator cores can be done much easier than removing the dash. Removing the blower motor and the blower motor resistor will allow you to use a flexible air powered liquid applicator that pulls some liquid cleaner from a container. I use commercial A/C evaporator cleaner for aluminum cores. A short piece of vacuum tubing or fuel line can be added to the end of the applicator tip, thus allowing for a better covering of the evaporator core face. Soak the core and let it sit for a few minutes. Then using a water supply with a flexible end, wash down the core face. Having a small flexible exam camera makes inspection of work much easier. May be necessary to repeat this several times as the dirt and dust can be stubborn. Protect the floorboard area with plastic bags as some water may overflow if you use too much pressure. Check drain to make sure it stays open during this time. Duct tape over the resistor hole may be necessary. Soaking the resistor is not a good thing.

A secondary way is after careful inspection of location of evaporator core, CAREFULLY drill a 3/4" hole inspection hole on the blower side of evaporator, taking care not to drill any lower than 3" from the bottom. Taking a LISLE radiator cleaning wand which sprays a 90 degree pattern from the tip, insert into casework allowing the water from the tip to clean the core. Core cleaner can first be applied thru the access hole before water is used. Plug the access hose with a plastic plug of proper size (buy plug before drilling access hole). You then have permanent access hole to clean core.

By using these methods, in 40 years I have very seldom had to pull a core to clean unless it was plugged with animal hair or very small grass seeds embedded deep within the core. Deep fungal growth in the core is also a another impossible job requiring replacement.

[axisbuck]

The satisfaction of saving a $1000 and now knowing it to do by yourself is unbeatable. Hats off to you

[Kurdawg]

Great job!

[fox1]

Cleaning the Dodge and Ford evaporator cores can be done much easier than removing the dash. Removing the blower motor and the blower motor resistor will allow you to use a flexible air powered liquid applicator that pulls some liquid cleaner from a container. I use commercial A/C evaporator cleaner for aluminum cores. A short piece of vacuum tubing or fuel line can be added to the end of the applicator tip, thus allowing for a better covering of the evaporator core face. Soak the core and let it sit for a few minutes. Then using a water supply with a flexible end, wash down the core face. Having a small flexible exam camera makes inspection of work much easier. May be necessary to repeat this several times as the dirt and dust can be stubborn. Protect the floorboard area with plastic bags as some water may overflow if you use too much pressure. Check drain to make sure it stays open during this time. Duct tape over the resistor hole may be necessary. Soaking the resistor is not a good thing.

A secondary way is after careful inspection of location of evaporator core, CAREFULLY drill a 3/4" hole inspection hole on the blower side of evaporator, taking care not to drill any lower than 3" from the bottom. Taking a LISLE radiator cleaning wand which sprays a 90 degree pattern from the tip, insert into casework allowing the water from the tip to clean the core. Core cleaner can first be applied thru the access hole before water is used. Plug the access hose with a plastic plug of proper size (buy plug before drilling access hole). You then have permanent access hole to clean core.

By using these methods, in 40 years I have very seldom had to pull a core to clean unless it was plugged with animal hair or very small grass seeds embedded deep within the core. Deep fungal growth in the core is also a another impossible job requiring replacement.

Sounds good but I just couldn't see it on my truck, I could barely get my finger on it. All in all it wasn't a bad job to pull the dash and I wanted to make sure I didn't see any damage on the coil.

[ldoyle]

I wish I had a dash to be able to remove!!

You must have a 2001 dodge ram

[MedikDave]

My 2005 F150 didn't have a cabin filter either. I guess I was lucky. As for online resources, I always order a subscription for each of my vehicles on www.AllDataDIY.com, and the Eric the Car Guy channel on YouTube is excellent.


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