Krivoman width at base??

[Slew]

Including the lip how wide is the standard model? 6' 4"? Trying to get 2 platforms made to get them off the ground a bit and need to know how big to make the platform! Blinds are 400 miles away so hard to throw a tape on em real quick!!

Thanks!

Todd

[hammer63]

That sounds real close. I built my platforms 6 feet high and 7' x 7'. If I had it to do over, I'd build them 8' x 8' to give myself a little landing for getting in and out of the blind.

[Big pig]

I did 8 x 8 and put the stand more to one corner. Then I had room to open the door.
Worked perfect

BP

[Slew]

I did 8 x 8 and put the stand more to one corner. Then I had room to open the door.
Worked perfect

BP

That might be what we do! Making it 8x7 isnt going to save any plywood.

Thanks!!

[Krivoman]

That might be what we do! Making it 8x7 isnt going to save any plywood.

Thanks!!

8x8 is the way to go. ALso if you angle door towards a corner you will pick up more porch space...

Blind is 82 inches round on outside lip.

[ArcheryAddict]

I have the exact one. I built a 7 x 7 and put a horse mat on it to quiet down any noise with a couple of 4 x 4 supports under the middle.

there was little to no room to walk around it without holding on to the blind. and the approach side left little room for walking in/out and climbing up/down.

go with an 8 x 8 minimum OR 7 wide by however extra over 7 you would want for a landing at the door.

[jerp]

8x8 is the way to go. ALso if you angle door towards a corner you will pick up more porch space...

Blind is 82 inches round on outside lip.

82" is the width (diameter) at the bottom, right?

[Krivoman]

Yes. Outside lip

[Slew]

8x8' we're only going 3' tall so they both fit on the trailer easy and pops isn't much on stairs as it is. Angling the door towards the offside corner should we put the staircase in the middle or more to the right side. Going to have a handrail on the left side cause I think the doors open from the right side?

Thanks!

[Burnadell]

As mentioned, 8x8 is perfect size without having to cut the plywood and leaving a small standing porch near the door. Just be sure to use 2x6 cross members for support underneath. I went with 2x4's and regret it because they still allowed some bowing of the plywood with causes water seepage from around the outside edge, even though I had caulked all the way around the circumference. During the heat of summer, the shell WILL expand as much as an inch or more in diameter, and it pulled away from the caulking.

I strongly urge you to also use silicone caulk to seal all of the windows and door frame along the outside frames where they are screwed into the shell. Water WILL run down the shell and seep inside the door frame and window frame, where buckling occurs in joining the frame and shell, dripping onto the inside floor.

I hunted last year after/during heavy rains, watching several constant drips, and my carpet was saturated and my feet were standing on a shallow lake! I went back last week (8 hour drive) and caulked the crap at every seam and along the inside and outside of the floor where it sits on the plywood. It looks like a monster seeping ooze now, but, hopefully, it won't leak!

Mitch, I suggest you run a bead of silicone all along the inside surface of the frames before screweing them to the shell.

[txdukklr]

8x8 is the way to go. I didn't use plywood, I ran 2x4's across mine.

I sealed mine at the bottom, i had an older one without the vent so it would get pretty steamy in the summer.

[Burnadell]

8x8 is the way to go. I didn't use plywood, I ran 2x4's across mine.

I sealed mine at the bottom, i had an older one without the vent so it would get pretty steamy in the summer.

I took that little vent out (only~2"x3") and cut the hole larger; then I cut a 4"x10" hole in the floor under the windows and covered with screening to keep the wasps out. Hopefully it will create a little more ventilation to avoid sweating when the windows are closed.

[Slew]

then I cut a 4"x10" hole in the floor under the windows .

Now you don't even have to stand up to pee!![emoji2]




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[Electrican]

As mentioned, 8x8 is perfect size without having to cut the plywood and leaving a small standing porch near the door. Just be sure to use 2x6 cross members for support underneath. I went with 2x4's and regret it because they still allowed some bowing of the plywood with causes water seepage from around the outside edge, even though I had caulked all the way around the circumference. During the heat of summer, the shell WILL expand as much as an inch or more in diameter, and it pulled away from the caulking.

I strongly urge you to also use silicone caulk to seal all of the windows and door frame along the outside frames where they are screwed into the shell. Water WILL run down the shell and seep inside the door frame and window frame, where buckling occurs in joining the frame and shell, dripping onto the inside floor.

I hunted last year after/during heavy rains, watching several constant drips, and my carpet was saturated and my feet were standing on a shallow lake! I went back last week (8 hour drive) and caulked the crap at every seam and along the inside and outside of the floor where it sits on the plywood. It looks like a monster seeping ooze now, but, hopefully, it won't leak!

Mitch, I suggest you run a bead of silicone all along the inside surface of the frames before screweing them to the shell.

I concur this!!!!!! ^^^^ And 8x8 is the way to go on the platform size. Otherwise your just throwing away the plywood cuts on anything smaller.

[chrigging]

How do you secure the blind to the platform? I am thinking wood screws and big washers.