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Plumbing pvc line from A/C secondary pan

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    Plumbing pvc line from A/C secondary pan

    What's rough estimate to plumb a pvc line from A/C secondary pan? Unit is in attic and line can run straight about 16 feet to penetrate through under eve if that's acceptable code wise. What say the HVAC guys out there.

    #2
    Not sure on cost but keep in mind they typically terminate over a door or window.

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      #3
      The material cost is going to be very low. You'll be paying for the tech's time, which may be pretty expensive.

      Out of curiosity, is this new construction or are you replacing the auxiliary drain in your existing home?

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        #4
        Also, I'd recommend having an overflow pan switch installed. It will kill the outdoor unit (if wired the way I do them) and help prevent the chance of damaging and expensive water damage should your pan leak or auxiliary drain line become restricted.

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          #5
          It's existing home built in 97. It has float switch on secondary pan. Inspector writes this up because they don't like idea of water evaporating into attic. What aggravates me is he communicated to buyer water can back up into house without drain line. Float switch kills power to unit to avoid continued water built up. My argument is even with second drain line it can get stopped up too from dirt dobber, dust, etc...and water will back up

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            #6
            Ttt

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              #7
              Originally posted by HogHunter34 View Post
              It's existing home built in 97. It has float switch on secondary pan. Inspector writes this up because they don't like idea of water evaporating into attic. What aggravates me is he communicated to buyer water can back up into house without drain line. Float switch kills power to unit to avoid continued water built up. My argument is even with second drain line it can get stopped up too from dirt dobber, dust, etc...and water will back up
              Checking to see if your drain lines are stopped up is part of routine home maintenance. You need the secondary drain line to let you know your primary line is stopped up and to keep small amounts of water from sitting in the drain pan below the float switch level and rusting the drain pan out. If the drain pan rust through the float switch is not going to help you.

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                #8
                Originally posted by jrfan View Post
                Checking to see if your drain lines are stopped up is part of routine home maintenance. You need the secondary drain line to let you know your primary line is stopped up and to keep small amounts of water from sitting in the drain pan below the float switch level and rusting the drain pan out. If the drain pan rust through the float switch is not going to help you.
                True but Texas heat = evaporation

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                  #9
                  Mechanical Code around here calls for either a secondary drain line be run over a door/window OR a float switch installed in pan if secondary is not run. Personally I like to see both...consider it cheap insurance when compared to losing a ceiling due to water damage.

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                    #10
                    Over the 4hrs this has been discussed regarding minimal costs, it could be completed for under $20 DIY. This is not an intimidating project. Y'all got this.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by tigerscowboy View Post
                      Over the 4hrs this has been discussed regarding minimal costs, it could be completed for under $20 DIY. This is not an intimidating project. Y'all got this.
                      $20 if you have to buy primer, glue and a pvc cutter. Then about 10 minutes of your time.

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                        #12
                        However I will say that whenever I sold my last house the buyers refused to let me do any of the work myself because it said in the contract "professional" repairs. We ended up getting new buyers.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by be12hunt View Post
                          However I will say that whenever I sold my last house the buyers refused to let me do any of the work myself because it said in the contract "professional" repairs. We ended up getting new buyers.
                          I agree easy fix but they want licensed people to do work. I have no issue having it done just looking for good estimate on cost.

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                            #14
                            it will all depend on where it runs to, i love the ones that terminate into the garage.
                            if you have to squeeze on your belly to get to the outside wall, price goes up.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by bowtecmike View Post
                              it will all depend on where it runs to, i love the ones that terminate into the garage.
                              if you have to squeeze on your belly to get to the outside wall, price goes up.
                              Nice part is I have a steep pitch on roof so it's not horribly tight work space

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