Ask any top shooter and they will say one of the biggest factors, if not the biggest factor, in shooting accurate and consistent is getting the draw length set correctly. So why do we see so many archers with incorrect draw lengths? The truth is, many have no idea it is incorrect! The cause is a multi-faceted answer though.
Let's take some of the mystery out of the draw length.
AMO (Archery Manufacturer's Organization) draw length: This is the standard by which all bows are measured.
True Draw Length: This is your actual draw length.
In the above image you can see how the AMO draw length is calculated. From the pivot point in the grip to the apex of the string at full draw, plus 1.75 inches.
The True Draw Length is from the pivot point in the grip to the apex of the string at full draw. This is your personal draw length.
Getting Started
Here are some good ways to start getting the correct draw length:
1) Wingspan Method 1: Measure your wingspan with your arms outstretched to the sides at shoulder level. Don't stretch or scrunch, and use the measurement from the very tip of the middle finger to the very tip of the middle finger.
wingspan-15/2 = starting draw length.
For me this is 72"-15/2 = 28.5"
2) Wingspan Method 2: Measure the same way as above, but the formula is a little different.
wingspan/2.5 = draw length
For me this is 72'/2.5 = 28.8"
3) Chest Reach Method: Place the arrow nock end on your chest at the crook of the collar bones at the base of your neck with the arrow sticking straight out. Now reach up with both hands outstretched and place them, palms together, with your middle fingers on the shaft. Measure the shaft from the nock groove to the point where your middle fingers touched the shaft.
For me that is = 28.875"
It looks like this:
4) Fist to Wall Method: Make fist and place your knuckles against the wall. Now measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth on your release hand side.
For me this is = 28.8"
5) Arrow Draw Method: Draw a bow like a Genesis or longbow with an arrow longer than your draw length to your anchor point. Mark the arrow at the pivot point of the grip or the center of the berger hole. Add 1.75" to this measurement.
For me that is 26.75" + 1.75 = 28.5"
As you can see, these methods are very close to each other in their end result.
ALL of these methods are for getting the AMO draw length, NOT the true draw length! IOW, you would set the bow up according to this draw length calculation; do NOT add 1.75" to this and then set the bow up; it will be too long.
The Truth
This is only a starting point, as you will see.
Given the above information my draw length should be anywhere from 28.5" to 28.875"; in fact, my draw length is 28.25".
I know people with some apelike arms that these methods were 1.5' off.
To make matters worse, many bow manufacturer's draw length systems are not spot on. My Hoyts always ran a little long as does my Bowtech. IOW, my Bowtech with a 28.5" module actually runs 29"; so I have to use a 28" module to get 28.5" on the bow and then tune my strings from there to get it to 28.25". Each manufacturer is different, and even different cam styles in each manufacturer's offerings can be different; some long, some short and some spot on.
Finding the perfect Draw Length
If the above methods are only a good starting point then we need to be able to fine tune our draw length.
There is no perfect draw length, only the perfect draw length for YOU! However, the consensus on how the string interacts with us is pretty universal.
The Nock: The nock point, the nock groove specifically, should be as close to under the pupil of the eye as possible. IOW, if you draw a plumb line from the eye down through the nock at full draw, that line should bisect the nock right at the throat of the nock at the apex of the string; or it should be VERY close to that.
Here is a good image of Randy Ulmer that shows this alignment.
The above image also shows the second point of string interaction; the point where the string touches the nose. Doing this will, in effect, give you two anchor points on the string; your nose and your peep.
Here is an image that shows the draw length to be too long:
However, the string doesn't necessarily NEED to touch the tip of the nose like Randy's does; it can be to one side. As long as it is the same every time. With some short axle to axle bows this is impossible to do without tilting the head, don't tilt your head to get to the string. Instead use a kisser button on the string at the corner of the mouth. This will accomplish the same thing, two anchor points.
Draw Length is just one aspect of proper form, but it is arguably the most important.
Too long and you will have a hard time holding on target and possibly cause damage to your shoulders.
Too short on you will have a jumpy sight picture and inconsistent shots due to using muscles rather than bone to bone contact.
It is better to be a 'little' too short than a 'little' (or a lot) too long.
This procedure will set the draw length for the bow you are shooting. But remember, not all draw lengths are created equal. Don't get so hung up on numbers that you miss the point; each bow/cam/module set up may be different. It's okay to shoot a 28.5" draw length setting on one bow and a 28" draw length setting on another; what matters is that it is the same for YOU! BTW, this can be easily checked on a drawing board or with a friend who knows what to look for.
Let's take some of the mystery out of the draw length.
AMO (Archery Manufacturer's Organization) draw length: This is the standard by which all bows are measured.
True Draw Length: This is your actual draw length.
In the above image you can see how the AMO draw length is calculated. From the pivot point in the grip to the apex of the string at full draw, plus 1.75 inches.
The True Draw Length is from the pivot point in the grip to the apex of the string at full draw. This is your personal draw length.
Getting Started
Here are some good ways to start getting the correct draw length:
1) Wingspan Method 1: Measure your wingspan with your arms outstretched to the sides at shoulder level. Don't stretch or scrunch, and use the measurement from the very tip of the middle finger to the very tip of the middle finger.
wingspan-15/2 = starting draw length.
For me this is 72"-15/2 = 28.5"
2) Wingspan Method 2: Measure the same way as above, but the formula is a little different.
wingspan/2.5 = draw length
For me this is 72'/2.5 = 28.8"
3) Chest Reach Method: Place the arrow nock end on your chest at the crook of the collar bones at the base of your neck with the arrow sticking straight out. Now reach up with both hands outstretched and place them, palms together, with your middle fingers on the shaft. Measure the shaft from the nock groove to the point where your middle fingers touched the shaft.
For me that is = 28.875"
It looks like this:
4) Fist to Wall Method: Make fist and place your knuckles against the wall. Now measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth on your release hand side.
For me this is = 28.8"
5) Arrow Draw Method: Draw a bow like a Genesis or longbow with an arrow longer than your draw length to your anchor point. Mark the arrow at the pivot point of the grip or the center of the berger hole. Add 1.75" to this measurement.
For me that is 26.75" + 1.75 = 28.5"
As you can see, these methods are very close to each other in their end result.
ALL of these methods are for getting the AMO draw length, NOT the true draw length! IOW, you would set the bow up according to this draw length calculation; do NOT add 1.75" to this and then set the bow up; it will be too long.
The Truth
This is only a starting point, as you will see.
Given the above information my draw length should be anywhere from 28.5" to 28.875"; in fact, my draw length is 28.25".
I know people with some apelike arms that these methods were 1.5' off.
To make matters worse, many bow manufacturer's draw length systems are not spot on. My Hoyts always ran a little long as does my Bowtech. IOW, my Bowtech with a 28.5" module actually runs 29"; so I have to use a 28" module to get 28.5" on the bow and then tune my strings from there to get it to 28.25". Each manufacturer is different, and even different cam styles in each manufacturer's offerings can be different; some long, some short and some spot on.
Finding the perfect Draw Length
If the above methods are only a good starting point then we need to be able to fine tune our draw length.
There is no perfect draw length, only the perfect draw length for YOU! However, the consensus on how the string interacts with us is pretty universal.
The Nock: The nock point, the nock groove specifically, should be as close to under the pupil of the eye as possible. IOW, if you draw a plumb line from the eye down through the nock at full draw, that line should bisect the nock right at the throat of the nock at the apex of the string; or it should be VERY close to that.
Here is a good image of Randy Ulmer that shows this alignment.
The above image also shows the second point of string interaction; the point where the string touches the nose. Doing this will, in effect, give you two anchor points on the string; your nose and your peep.
Here is an image that shows the draw length to be too long:
However, the string doesn't necessarily NEED to touch the tip of the nose like Randy's does; it can be to one side. As long as it is the same every time. With some short axle to axle bows this is impossible to do without tilting the head, don't tilt your head to get to the string. Instead use a kisser button on the string at the corner of the mouth. This will accomplish the same thing, two anchor points.
Draw Length is just one aspect of proper form, but it is arguably the most important.
Too long and you will have a hard time holding on target and possibly cause damage to your shoulders.
Too short on you will have a jumpy sight picture and inconsistent shots due to using muscles rather than bone to bone contact.
It is better to be a 'little' too short than a 'little' (or a lot) too long.
This procedure will set the draw length for the bow you are shooting. But remember, not all draw lengths are created equal. Don't get so hung up on numbers that you miss the point; each bow/cam/module set up may be different. It's okay to shoot a 28.5" draw length setting on one bow and a 28" draw length setting on another; what matters is that it is the same for YOU! BTW, this can be easily checked on a drawing board or with a friend who knows what to look for.
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