Issues broadhead tuning?

[boweye]

Jake,

I would rule out fletching contact first. You can spray the underside of you vanes with foot power and inspect them after the shot for fletching contact. The foot powder will remain undisturbed if there is no contact.

Please position your arrows with the cock vane straight up and shoot a few. Trust me, that your arrows will clear the buss cables. This will give you the greatest clearance from the launcher arms.

Any dark smudges on the vanes? If at any time, did the arrow rest fail to drop? The launcher arm doesn't look like it's pulled far enough back, but I'm not as familiar with the ripcord.

The pull cord should be tight at full draw. Your wife could push on the cord at full draw to see if it's tight and the launcher arm shouldn't move.

[boweye]

Form looks great! Elbow, release, and right hand pressure point are lined up in a perfect line! I would close your fingers, but remain loose on the grip... keeps the bow from rocking. Look at videos from the pros. like Levi Morgan. Almost all of them close their fingers. Just a tip.

Matt

[SAVIOUR68]

http://www.nockontv.com/video/tech-tip/gallery?videoid=skaqugfH07I#youtubegallery

Jake here is a quick video to look at, this shows proper draw length set up which will get your hips and shoulders in line as well as your shoulders / draw arm/arrow/bow arm in alignment. PROPER T form. This video is easier to under stand and hope my PM didn't confuse you yesterday.

[enewman]

I see a fight coming. So I'm out. But jake. Your form needs work. It's not bad but far from great. You have form problems. Look at the video saviour68 posted. This is what you should look like. Good luck and happy shooting to everyone

[jake-1024]

Thanks enewman. Confusing as hell just talking over the Internet. Appreciate the help though.

[jake-1024]

Also going from saviour68's advice I have a set of 28.5" mods coming my way. Will get those put on to start with.

[enewman]

Jake

Haha and I said I was gone. One more thing. After you get your form fixed. There is another method of tuning. H.I.L.

(A) cut arrows
(B) change out tip weights
(C). This is called H.I.L. Method. This method is using your arrows and turning bow up and down on poundage. Look this one up

I do (A). But I always start with bare shafts. Since yours are fletched. Look at (B) or (C).

[SAVIOUR68]

I see a fight coming. So I'm out. But jake. Your form needs work. It's not bad but far from great. You have form problems. Look at the video saviour68 posted. This is what you should look like. Good luck and happy shooting to everyone

Nope no fight here, we will respectfully agree to disagree
As you said a couple small adjustments and he is going to be ready to go,
Only problem still is I believe those 340's are going to require a ton of weight to get them to tune and shortening the draw didn't help any meaning they just got a bit stiffer with the shorter draw length.
Johns method of draw length set up is spot on and I do mine slightly different, I will use a door jam or corned in your house and rest my palm on the corner like you would set it in a bow grip, then measure from the corner to the corner of your mouth while standing vertically in a T formation.

[enewman]

Nope no fight here, we will respectfully agree to disagree
As you said a couple small adjustments and he is going to be ready to go,
Only problem still is I believe those 340's are going to require a ton of weight to get them to tune and shortening the draw didn't help any meaning they just got a bit stiffer with the shorter draw length.
Johns method of draw length set up is spot on and I do mine slightly different, I will use a door jam or corned in your house and rest my palm on the corner like you would set it in a bow grip, then measure from the corner to the corner of your mouth while standing vertically in a T formation.

The fight was not between me and you. I saw a problem between you and boweye coming

Jake's form needs work as you have stated. Not a lot but a little.

The problem with helping on the Internet and jake and I posted about this. You get one guy saying one thing and another saying opposite. Then the op gets confused. Crap I get confused.

But I will disagree with you on arrows being to stiff. But the methods of tuning I posted will get him spot on for the arrow. And it may take weight on the 340 to get there.

[rocky]

Jake, If you want to shorten DL, go ahead. It won't hurt a thing.
Your arrows will be fine regardless.
You have an issue with your string angle in regards to the bow, in the vertical plane.
In other words, you are torquing the bow.
I know you don't think you are, but a discrepancy between field points and broadheads this large is either a CenterShot issue or a torque issue.
Your CenterShot from your pics, is inside.
Move it to center, THEN shoot your arrows.
If the difference in POI is still as great, you need to work on pulling the bowstring straight back.

[jake-1024]

Will do rocky. Gonna take the grip off the bow also and see if that helps.

[jake-1024]

Thinking it could also be my release hand pressing too hard against my face I'm just playing with everything a little at a time to see what helps.

[boweye]

Jake,

Have you eliminated fletching contact?

[jake-1024]

No. I haven't shot since this past Saturday. I will definitely do that when I have a chance though. Unfortunately I've been working doubles the past few weeks so I'm never home during daylight until the weekends.

[CastAndBlast]

A ton of good info already posted. One thing that I saw in the pic was your grip. I could be completely wrong, but it looks like you have too much contact on the grip with your palm which caused a lot of torquing issues in the past for me.

One thing that was explained to me was that you should be able to put your 4th and 5th digit between your palm and bow grip when drawn back (if that makes any sense )

So basically, your point of contact with the grip should be primarily between the thumb and index finger with the rest of your palm not touching the grip.

This fixed my torquing problems. Good luck!