It's either on your release hand or your bow hand
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Issues broadhead tuning?
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Issues broadhead tuning?
Originally posted by enewman View PostYou will be surprised
So are you 6 ft tall
Originally posted by jake-1024 View PostYes sir. Right at 6 feet.
I'm sorry :-)
I'm 7" taller ;-)
What's you're axle to axle?
I'd check form. When I get funky it's usually, mostly my anchor point.
My bows got a 38" axle to axle
Draws 64#
draw is 31.5"
My arrows are 340 spine & 30" long,
I have 50 grain weights behind the insert and use 125 grain tips.
My broadheads , Magnus Stingers, hit within 1" of my field points. I chose not to mess with itLast edited by Pushbutton2; 02-05-2016, 07:39 PM.
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Axle to axle is 31.5" on this model bow. I will try to get video of me shooting a few arrows so y'all can check form. I always shoot from a seated position bc that's how I hunt. Never stand to shoot so may be a little more difficult to tell on form, but it will at least give you guys an idea and I can get some pointers on it.
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Originally posted by boweye View PostDrawl length has nothing to do with the equation of arrow spine.
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Originally posted by Pushbutton2 View PostIt could be string angle.
MIGHT be trying to bring your face to bow to get your nose on the string. Instead of bringing the bow to your face. Changing get your form...
Definitely possible. I've never noticed myself doing that, but I will check it out when I shoot again.
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Originally posted by jake-1024 View PostAxle to axle is 31.5" on this model bow. I will try to get video of me shooting a few arrows so y'all can check form. I always shoot from a seated position bc that's how I hunt. Never stand to shoot so may be a little more difficult to tell on form, but it will at least give you guys an idea and I can get some pointers on it.
It would also be nice to see what your arrow is doing through paper. And yes most people don't use paper but when trouble shooting this is a good indicator.
Shoot through it at around 3 to 5 ft. Then 8 to 10 ft then a around 15 ft. If you don't have a paper tuner. Easy to build. Take a box cut the bottom out and tape paper over it. Paper tuning needs to be done at shoulder height.
If you can do this before you make any changes to the bow. And mark the paper what distance. That way when we make changes we can see what is happening.
Doing this over a text is not easy. It is a step by step. You would be better to go to a good shop close by if you have one.Last edited by enewman; 02-06-2016, 08:01 AM.
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Jake just so we can see were your center shot is do this.
1.With your arrow sitting on the rest
2. Bows lower cam sitting on the ground and you holding the bow on the upper cam
3. Take a picture of the bow from the top down showing were the front of the arrow and stabilizer intersect.
This will help get a base center shot as well as tell us were it it set at know
Once we can get a base center shoot you can do as enewman posts on paper tuningLast edited by SAVIOUR68; 02-06-2016, 07:28 AM.
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Looks little to the inside. Take an arrow Lat it on in side if riser. And square your arrow from that. This should put you square from spring out to end of arrow. Hope that makes since
Could eye ball that will get you close.
Or take the arrow you broke. Take a string and tape it from limb bolt to limb bolt in center. Make sure the broke arrow can be knocked but not touching the string. Now center the arrow on string looking at the arrow.Last edited by enewman; 02-06-2016, 05:53 PM.
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