Decided to just go with wood base with elevators ( going up with 10 ft. Legs)and put a fiberglass stand up on it. Can't afford a metal one right now, want to take my time and build it myself. Think I need to water proof the plywood base some how, besides just painting it. Any suggestions.
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Marine plywood. No painting necessary. -
Well **** how much does it cost?Comment
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a real good job of painting does a good job, will need occasional maintenance, but so does "waterproofing" with some type of water sealer.Comment
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When I built my pop-up platform a few weeks ago I went with untreated plywood. Putting it up was going to be a solo project and a sheet and a half of 3/4 treated is heavier than I wanted to rassle' by myself. Once I got it screwed down I rolled on 3 coats of paint, making sure I got good coverage on the edges. I found a gallon of "oops" exterior paint at my local Ace for $8.00. I'm putting outdoor carpet on top which should help protect it from the elements.Last edited by jerp; 08-30-2015, 09:27 AM.Comment
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I went with treated material on everything. Have not painted it in 4 years. Looks weathered, but still in good shapeComment
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Just use 5/4 deck boards cedar or treated .
Treated is cheapComment
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Treated is the only way to go! I bought a commercial stand that had painted plywood on the bottom. It lasted about two years. I couldn't believe the cheap *******s didn't use treated.Comment
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Treated 3/4" plywood sheets are about $30-$35 per sheet, depending where you buy it. Home Depot is $29.95.Comment
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Do u have pics? How high? Any elevator brackets? Since you recently built yours could you possibly provide a parts list? Much appreciatedOriginally posted by jerp View PostComment
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Use untreated exterior plywood and buy fiberglass resin, hardner, cheap 4" white china bristle brush and lacquer thinner. Mix resin and then add lacquer thinner (15-25% ratio) to resin to thin to water like consistency. Set up the plywood in the sun. First coat will disappear into the wood. Keep going until resin stays on surface.
Waterproofs and stabilizes the wood fibers. Cost a little and takes time but you won't have to redo the platform due to rot.Last edited by BigYoung; 08-30-2015, 12:37 PM.Comment
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I will take pics next time I go out. The frame is made from 2x6s. Outside dimensions are 96'x76'. (The footprint of the blind I'm using is 68"x68") I used joist hangers to run 5 more 2x6s longways to support the plywood. The legs on each corner are 48" 4x4s secured with lag screws. The top is one full sheet of 3/4" plywood and one piece 96" long, ripped at 28". I also ran 2x4 braces around the legs at 24" from the ground. I added a simple ladder on the back made out of 2x4s to make it easy to climb up. I'm not going to add the blind until late September.
Edit: I did use treated lumber for everything except the plywood topLast edited by jerp; 08-30-2015, 01:10 PM.Comment
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I am on year 6 and 7 for two 6x6 blinds I built out of regular non-treated plywood. I just used a good semi-gloss EXTERIOR paint I found on the miss mixed paint at HD or Lowes and paint it every 3 years. Still going strong and showing absolutely zero signs of falling apart. My hunting buddy on my lease has two of the same exact blinds with the same luck. If you can't paint it, then I'd stain it or go treated but I'd be painting treated wood as well after it dried a few months.
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