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Looks like it was welder once. Weld hole smaller and drill out to the size you want.Comment
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No comments on my first thought.Originally posted by BrianL View Post
But I did think about drilling the hole larger on the inner pipe and welding in a solid pipe with the ID that size required for the link pin. Or even a little large size ID and use a bushing that could be replaced.Comment
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If you're close to Greenville I can fix it for you. PM me if interested.Comment
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Originally posted by UncleBubba View Post
We are a long way from each other.
I have no doubt I will get if fixed.
Just wanted some more ideas.
Thank you for the offer
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After looking back, my Autocad drawing didn't look to quiet right
DO you have a cutting torch? Drilling makes everything way too difficult. You can cut with a welding rod if you don't have a torch.Comment
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sell the rack and buy a new one...fixed!Comment
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New ones are very expensive.. Only use the darn thing 3-4 times a year.Originally posted by bwssr View PostComment
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You definitely want to do the inner pipe like BrianL showed. It will keep future wallering to a minimum by not having a shearing affect at the two pipes. I have actually had to do that to a rake just like that. Outer holes were just built up on the wallered side and ground to fit with a die grinder and a stone burr. Worked a treat.Comment
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I little update.
I was told that the elongated washers are put on at the factory to allow the arms to move. My neighbor has a similiar rake and his had those elongated washers in the same places. There has to be a certain amount of play in those arms for the rake to work properly. The inside holes are not normally elongated. I was told to just put it back together as it should work just fine.
Thanks for everyone input.Comment
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So hay rakes are designed to rattle. Good to know. Glad everything is good to go.Comment
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