Existing feeder pin rebuild question/opinions

[WCB]

I have 1 pen that's square, t-post mostly and some trees, and 1 kinda of a scalene triangle. Longer than wide and 5 sided kinda...

To put up hog panels, should I just follow current shape, or start over and make it round?

And anyone wanna help???

[Humper]

I'm sure you thought of this layout!

[bbqfan5909]

In my experience, round is the strongest

[Smart]

I'm sure you thought of this layout!

[ATTACH]715449[/ATTACH]

LMAO...OK I snorted and I don't snort.. Hey Mike..

[8pointer]

Round and make the pen as big as you can with the money that you are willing to spend.

[WCB]

Round and make the pen as big as you can with the money that you are willing to spend.

Yep
Is 40' round big enough?

[Gummi Bear]

Existing feeder pin rebuild question/opinions

Start all over. Build a round pen.

Overlap the panels by 2 squares, and tie them together 3x at each end of panel.

Set t-posts every 8' or so, and use barb wire tie clips to fasten the panels to the posts.

You do not have to put the posts where the panels overlap this way, and it is a pen that is extremely difficult for pigs and livestock to tear up.

I use 12.5ga galvanized messenger wire as tie wire. It is used for chain link bottom wire, and it is cheap to buy.

Use a tool like this to tie the panels together: http://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/...l?cm_vc=-10005


You can find some how-to videos on YouTube for how to use it.

[Smart]

10-12 16' panel minimum is my preference for round.....

[BolilloLoco]

40' diameter is not big enough IMO.
Add 4 more panels.

[Gummi Bear]

12 panels will make a pen that is nearly 60' in diameter.

It is pretty darn big, but will allow deer to move freely, without feeling confined.

[bfree]

I would say round has been the best for me.

[WCB]

I can maybe make 50' but 60' is out unless I move a lot.

And I'm thinking of another feeder 30/40yds out from my quadpod out of the pen set to go off 30 minutes after dark. Hate pigs but still wanna shoot some...

[Big pig]

I can maybe make 50' but 60' is out unless I move a lot.

And I'm thinking of another feeder 30/40yds out from my quadpod out of the pen set to go off 30 minutes after dark. Hate pigs but still wanna shoot some...

I set my feeder where some is slung outside the round pens. On the stand side
Strong batteries help.

[scotty]

When we first started feeding protein, I asked about feeder pens. Tuthdoc offered this up to to me....


Here's my pen strategy.First choice for protein is no pen. For that you have to have no cows, hogs, goats, sheep, or horses. That doesn't happen very oftenSecond choice is a 3 strand barbed wire pen made like Dale, but I use the 4 barbed gaucho wire on all 4 sides and just use a hog panel for the gate, about 12 to 16 ft wide. I use trees as corners if I have them, even if the pen has to be odd shaped to include them. I use a stretcher to pull the wire. The bottom strand is at or above the knee so that a deer can go under without even thinking about it. 2nd strand waist high. third about chest. can't have hogs, goats or sheep.third choice is a panel fence. I use hog panels. Minimum of 10. Over about 14 is overkill, but you can't make a mistake making them too big, just too little. The thicker it is, the bigger you make it. Can't make them feel confined at all. We pick our spot for the pen, which is by far the biggest step and most important. Put it where the deer want it and where they live, not where you want it for convenience, water, etc. When the site is chosen, we lay out the panels in our circle. then we stand them up and tie wrap them together with the overlap. The circle makes it easy for the panel to stand. Once all the panels are tie wrapped, the circle is completed. The gate area is ready. We drive a t at each overlap, with one person coming behind and wiring the posts to the panel. We use 10 posts, one at each overlap. If we use a dual opening gate, we drive an extra post about midway of each gate panel. We then drive two posts away from the pen where each side of the gate will go. That's to hold the gate open when you're using the pen. That's minimum of 10 panels, and 14 posts. We don't bother adding more posts. If you want it more sturdy, then add a post mid panel, but we haven't seen the need. We've got lots of hogs and cows and they haven't caused a problem. If a cow wants in, an extra post won't stop them anyway. Personally, I'd NEVER add any wire strands above the panels. It's a death trap for a lazy deer. They can jump an 8 ft fence if they want, but are too lazy to expend any more energy than is needed to barely clear a hog panel. If one gets his leg in that gap, he can break his leg, or at least get hung and die. If I wanted a higher fence, I'd buy cattle panels and either leave it high, or cut it down to suit your needs. A panel is 52 inches. Cut the top square off and you have a 48 inch fence. Next, you have a 42. etc.Lot's of different ways to git it done. That's just the way we do it.

[WCB]

When we first started feeding protein, I asked about feeder pens. Tuthdoc offered this up to to me....


Here's my pen strategy.First choice for protein is no pen. For that you have to have no cows, hogs, goats, sheep, or horses. That doesn't happen very oftenSecond choice is a 3 strand barbed wire pen made like Dale, but I use the 4 barbed gaucho wire on all 4 sides and just use a hog panel for the gate, about 12 to 16 ft wide. I use trees as corners if I have theme, even if the pen has to be odd shaped to include them. I use a stretcher to pull the wire. The bottom strand is at or above the knee so that a deer can go under without even thinking about it. 2nd strand waist high. third about chest. can't have hogs, goats or sheep.third choice is a panel fence. I use hog panels. Minimum of 10. Over about 14 is overkill, but you can't make a mistake making them too big, just too little. The thicker it is, the bigger you make it. Can't make them feel confined at all. We pick our spot for the pen, which is by far the biggest step and most important. Put it where the deer want it and where they live, not where you want it for convenience, water, etc. When the site is chosen, we lay out the panels in our circle. then we stand them up and tie wrap them together with the overlap. The circle makes it easy for the panel to stand. Once all the panels are tie wrapped, the circle is completed. The gate area is ready. We drive a t at each overlap, with one person coming behind and wiring the posts to the panel. We use 10 posts, one at each overlap. If we use a dual opening gate, we drive an extra post about midway of each gate panel. We then drive two posts away from the pen where each side of the gate will go. That's to hold the gate open when you're using the pen. That's minimum of 10 panels, and 14 posts. We don't bother adding more posts. If you want it more sturdy, then add a post mid panel, but we haven't seen the need. We've got lots of hogs and cows and they haven't caused a problem. If a cow wants in, an extra post won't stop them anyway. Personally, I'd NEVER add any wire strands above the panels. It's a death trap for a lazy deer. They can jump an 8 ft fence if they want, but are too lazy to expend any more energy than is needed to barely clear a hog panel. If one gets his leg in that gap, he can break his leg, or at least get hung and die. If I wanted a higher fence, I'd buy cattle panels and either leave it high, or cut it down to suit your needs. A panel is 52 inches. Cut the top square off and you have a 48 inch fence. Next, you have a 42. etc.Lot's of different ways to git it done. That's just the way we do it.

My 3 wire pens I did just like John said. And will build new pens as he suggested.

Anyone leave small gaps for fawns to squeeze through??