Beer cooler not cooling lower than 60 degrees

[systemnt]

I have a TRUE Model gdm-23hl beverage cooler that seems to have lost its charge.. compressor still kicks in, fans are blowing.. and it does cool..somewhat...but wont drop below 60 degrees.
All fins and coils are clean (brushed and vaccumed)
I looked at the compressor and don't see a place to hook up a r134a charge kit to it if I wanted to... copper seems all sealed.

Anyone know of someone in the Montgomery area that does this sort of thing and wont cost me a second mortgage?

Also take any ideas on what , if not the charge, would cause it not to drop in temp?

[boh347]

http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/f4c7fb244e9730836e471f3ae5a67ad5

[Buckshot-73]

If it don't fit, force it,....



If it breaks, it needed replacin anyway.

[Richard M.]

Most common issues on those are the thermostat. I have a True cooler that I had to replace the thermostat on. My issue was the opposite though, it kept freezing my beer and not turning off. I could see one failing both ways. It was less than $30 and easy to install. It would be cheaper than calling a repairman and wouldn't be out much if it didn't fix it. My money would be on it fixing the problem.

[thegrouse]

If the evaporator is not iced up and the condenser is clean and all of your fans are running you are down to the compressor and freon level. Your compressor should not be cycling off and should be running the entire time. If it is cycling off at 60 degrees you do need to check the thermostat. I think those units have a capillary tube and the charge is fairly critical. They make a saddle valve that you install on the suction line so you can access the system with a set of guages. They used to leak so I would always braze in a tap once I put the saddle valve on so I didn't have to return for a freon leak.

[wtb90]

Hurry! Drink it all before it ruins

[systemnt]

If the evaporator is not iced up and the condenser is clean and all of your fans are running you are down to the compressor and freon level. Your compressor should not be cycling off and should be running the entire time. If it is cycling off at 60 degrees you do need to check the thermostat. I think those units have a capillary tube and the charge is fairly critical. They make a saddle valve that you install on the suction line so you can access the system with a set of guages. They used to leak so I would always braze in a tap once I put the saddle valve on so I didn't have to return for a freon leak.

It doesn't cycle off and does run all the time.
Based on the other stuff you said...think I'm going to need a service call...since I didn't understand any of it.
That's not something joe - mechanic can do himself is it?

[thegrouse]

It depends on your abiity. Do you have a set of gauges? A line tap valve is 6 bucks on Amazon and a can of freon is probably less than 10 bucks. You would need to install a valve and add freon and hope the tap doesn't leak. But if you are low on freon you have a leak which means it will happen again. Those systems don't hold too much freon so the leaks can be tough to find. It is not hard to do but you have to be careful not to overcharge with freon. Once you figure out how to charge the system you can add freon as needed. Not the best way to do it but by far cheaper than calling a service company. There is always a chance the compressor valves are shot and not pumping or there is a capillary tube restriction. These are not nearly as common of problems as the freon leak.

[TX_bowhunter37]

One word yeti

[WCB]

Sounds like you need some friends to come over and drink all your beer before it ruins...

Sorry, all I got.