Zero on 220 swift?

[bklem]

Ok I hunt deer. I'm not a ballistics guy. Have owned very few guns compared to a lot of "gun" folks. So now that I have gotten that out of the way, I have acquired a 220 swift. Always wanted one and my side job entails shooting a LOT of does/hogs/yotes/Nilgai and I'm not a big gun fan so bottom line is I am the proud new owner of a swift. I know the swift won't work for the antelopes but it will for the other three. The ballistics on the bullet I will be shooting (Hornady 55 grain Vmax) says it has no drop at 200 yds. And 2.5" drop at 300 yds. What would ya'll recommend I have my gun zeroed at-200 yds? If so, Will I be dead on at 100 also and 2.5" low at 300? Thanks in advance.

[Mike D]

Ok I hunt deer. I'm not a ballistics guy. Have owned very few guns compared to a lot of "gun" folks. So now that I have gotten that out of the way, I have acquired a 220 swift. Always wanted one and my side job entails shooting a LOT of does/hogs/yotes/Nilgai and I'm not a big gun fan so bottom line is I am the proud new owner of a swift. I know the swift won't work for the antelopes but it will for the other three. The ballistics on the bullet I will be shooting (Hornady 55 grain Vmax) says it has no drop at 200 yds. And 2.5" drop at 300 yds. What would ya'll recommend I have my gun zeroed at-200 yds? If so, Will I be dead on at 100 also and 2.5" low at 300? Thanks in advance.

Here you go.

[bklem]

Thanks Mike. I went back and looked at my chart and I was obviously wrong on the 300 yd. drop. I've always sighted my .270 and 7 mag in at 2.5" high at 100 yds. Soooooo, knowing that, would you do the same with the swift?

[M16]

It might be. Shoot it at those distances and find out. Ballistic tables are a general guide.

[bklem]

It might be. Shoot it at those distances and find out. Ballistic tables are a general guide.

Kind of what I figured. Nothing replaces actual shooting!

[Mike D]

Zero on 220 swift?

It might be. Shoot it at those distances and find out. Ballistic tables are a general guide.

Don't disagree at all but this one has been right on for me. As long as you know your velocity and bullet info it's pretty **** accurate.

Example, zeroed my 22-250 Ackley at 100 yards.

Drove around to my 520 yards range. Plugged in my data, told me my come ups, I dialed this in and made a first round hit 4" to the left of the center on a 12" steel plate. Drop was dead on. I didn't read the wind right.

[Mike D]

Zero on 220 swift?

Thanks Mike. I went back and looked at my chart and I was obviously wrong on the 300 yd. drop. I've always sighted my .270 and 7 mag in at 2.5" high at 100 yds. Soooooo, knowing that, would you do the same with the swift?

It's whatever you are comfortable with. You need to take your MPBR into account as well. Here's what 2.5" high at 100 looks like.

[bklem]

Ok so treat me like a kindergartner here. I'm horrible with ballistics and those dang graphs! If I'm dead on at 200, I'll be 1" low at 100 and 5" low at 300? Is that what I'm seeing? SO, would I be better off being 1 or 2" high at 100?

Edit- we were typing at the same time.

[M16]

Don't disagree at all but this one has been right on for me. As long as you know your velocity and bullet info it's pretty **** accurate.

Example, zeroed my 22-250 Ackley at 100 yards.

Drove around to my 520 yards range. Plugged in my data, told me my come ups, I dialed this in and made a first round hit 4" to the left of the center on a 12" steel plate. Drop was dead on. I didn't read the wind right.

There are numerous variables. Altitude, scope height, ect. Just depends on how exact you want to be. Not many people own a chronograph so they are guessing at velocity.

[bklem]

It's whatever you are comfortable with. You need to take your MPBR into account as well. Here's what 2.5" high at 100 looks like.

[ATTACH]641793[/ATTACH]

MPBR??? What that chart tells me is I need to consider what most of my shots will be and that is 100 yds or shorter. Our does aren't real smart!

[GarGuy]

I would sight it dead on at 50. It will be less than an inch off from point blank to near 200yds.

[gumbl3]

Mpbr = maximum point blank range.. sounds like what you are looking for. In short if you take into account the arc that a bullet travels, it leaves the muzzle, passes over your line of site and peaks at a point above your line of site. This measurement will be half of your intended vital area (1.5" for example), then the projectile 'falls' and will cross the line of sight again, this will be your zero distance and is dependent on your intended target area and bullet specs.. once the projectile falls below the line of site at the measurement above (1.5") this distance is your mpbr. The thinking is no matter where you hold from 0 to mpbr you'll always be within that 3" circle and no doping required for a kill shot. Google a picture, it can probably explain it better than I did

[gumbl3]

Just going off the tables above, zero it at 200 and feel comfortable a with any shot out to 250. You can hold dead on won't be worse than 1" high out to the two hundo mark and will be 2" low if you stretch to 250. Just be sure that you are high at 100 yds with a dead hold because remember the projectile crosses the line of sight twice

[Master Blaster]

Ok so treat me like a kindergartner here. I'm horrible with ballistics and those dang graphs! If I'm dead on at 200, I'll be 1" low at 100 and 5" low at 300? Is that what I'm seeing? SO, would I be better off being 1 or 2" high at 100?

Edit- we were typing at the same time.

No you should be 1" high at 100 and flat @ 200...most of your faster rounds are this way give or take a few .1" or so. That round has lot more power then you think it does...my buddy shoots a big whitetail buck every year with a slower .223 in 55 gr Vmax.

[Mike D]

There are numerous variables. Altitude, scope height, ect. Just depends on how exact you want to be. Not many people own a chronograph so they are guessing at velocity.

Again Larry I agree with you. I'm definitely giving him somewhere to start only.

But this program I use does account for all of that. I can get real time atmospheric conditions for the area I'm in provided I have decent cell signal.