06 bowtech tuning problem

[stryker93]

I have a 06 bowtech tomkat that I am having problems getting tuned. I have 28 inch draw and it scaled out at 70 lbs a couple months ago. I had the strings and cables replaced with winner's choice and have had problems ever since. I have taken the bow in several times and have had it adjusted, but I seem to get one problem fixed and then end up with another one. My arrows are carbon express maxima hunters cut to 27.5 in. I am shooting blazer vanes and 100 grain points. Before the string change, I was shooting both slick tricks and strikers to the same point of impact as my field points. Now the strikers are close, but the tricks still fly left an inch or two.

I am not the best shot in America, but I am normally fairly consistant with 2 inch groups at 20. When I have had a flyer in the past, I could tell what I did wrong. Now, I am getting occasional flyers that I cannot figure out. I attempted to measure the draw, but with no draw board I'm not sure how correct the measurement was. It seemed to show the draw 1/2 inch long. I am showing the brace height at 8.6 inches which matches the specs. My axle to axle, however, measures at 31.5 and spec says 31.75.

Any suggestions??

[Chew]

Have you shot the new string enough to where it has stopped stretching? Couple hundred shots?

[DrenalinJunkie]

If you are only getting occasional flyers, it may not be anything but the arrows. I would tweak my arrows first before I did any other adjustments.

[stryker93]

I've got at least 500 shots on the strings and cables. It's just really weird that I never had a problem with the arrows before. I've also tried different arrows and fletching combinations to no avail.

[atexx2]

Was the new string the same as the old one ?
Is the nocking point the same as the old one ?
Was the peep sight reinstalled in the same location?
It seems like it has something to do with the string because that is what was changed.

[stryker93]

I actually changed both the strings and cables. Sorry if that was not clear. Peep was put back in the same spot and I guess the loop was put back in the same place. Not sure, the guy at the bow shop installed everything.

Can the brace height and poundage be right with the AtoA off by 1/2 inch?

[atexx2]

I try use the process of elimination with my bow problems.
Was the specs correct before you got the strings and cables changed?

If a shorter string was used then the A to A will most likly be affected.

Do you have the old string to measure?

I got a new Diamond in April and the A to A was different than what the specs called for.

[Xspot]

sounds like you need to do some cable and String twisting to get your Axle to Axle back to spec. That should get your draw length back to normal... Then adjust your poundage back to 70 pounds..... Make sure your limbs are the same number of turns from the bottom....

[stryker93]

Which do I twist to do what. Do I twist the string to get AtoA or cables?

[Xspot]

Because you are 1/2 in short, I would do some on both but do more on the cable then the string..... you will have to untwist them both.. start with 4 off on the cable and 2 on the string... also pay attention to the cam... IF it has tuning marks or not... you do not want it to be to over rotated or to under rotated

[stryker93]

It is a Binary Cam bow. Does that make a difference?

[Xspot]

Dont matter.. ALL bows go out of tune and need some cable and string tweeking.....

you need to twist or untwist string and cables till the tune is correct and the Axle to Axle are correct....

[rocky]

If we knew the poundage was correct,we don't need to worry about A2A too much, it's not that critical, besides, if we adjust A2A out, we'll shorten BH, and it's on. Everything you do, affects something else.
Measure from the bottom of your nock groove on your arrow 26 1/4 inches- that is your true draw length(28AMO). draw the bow with that arrow, and that mark, (26 1/4) should be no more than 1/4 past the pivot point of grip.
Make sure your cams are even at rest.
You can advance or retard cams 2-3 lbs, and the bow will still tune. Advancing cams will lengthen draw length and increase letoff while retarding them will do the opposite.
All specs are guidelines, and should be used as such.
Same with post settings, they don't allways work out by the book.
Get cam timing right, poundage right, draw length and letoff, and then start tuning.
Most of the time when a bow is restrung, the bow is "tighter" creating more tension and a little more torque from the cablerod, and the bow willhave to be retuned differently (sideways) than previous.

The differences in A2A, cam timing, and post sttings(from book specs) can be attributed to inconsistent limb deflections and is common with all brands of bows to some extent.
Good luck
Hope this helps

[DaveC]

Great advice so far.....(X-spot & Rocky do this for a living)

Is the peep really where it used to be in relation to the string loop?
If you move one while tuning, the other should move as well....

Draw the bow with your eyes closed, anchor and then open your shooting eye- you should be looking through the peep and not having to bob your head around for your eye to center it properly.

If the BH is "on" but the ATA is out, could it be cam rotation isn't where it was? Unless my math is incorrect your ATA is only out .25" (1/4") which isn't much in the grand scheme of things.

Did you mark the cams in relation to the limbs before the string replacement?

You say it scaled 70# a few months ago, have you scaled it after the string was replaced?


Another thing to check (not sure how much it would matter) is the cable & string crossing the slide in the correct location? Above or below the cable rod? (you'd have to look at a stock unit to compare)

Let us (them^) know what you find….

[stryker93]

I rechecked the peep and it seems to be in the right spot. When my brother and I measured the draw we both came up with 26 3/4. He has an Outback that is a 28 inch draw and both draws used to feel about the same length. Now mine feels longer. We both noticed that we had to extend our bow arm farther than normal to keep the same anchor. When we measured his draw we got 26 and little more than a 1/4. The last time I took my bow in, the valley was nearly non existant. The tech adjusted the draw stop to give me more valley. Could that lengthen the draw?