Try rockauto.com
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Originally posted by tgil View PostShane,
I'm pretty sure I know what you are looking for, but just to verify...under that plate in Wassaw's pic above, there is a metal gear that drives the regulator. On the opposite end of the gear, there is a nylon/plastic gear that is actually driven my the motor. Between those two there is a 3 splined/toothed gear that connects the metal gear to the bigger plastic gear?
If that is the area that is worn, I want to say you can put (3) 13/32 ball bearings in there to replace the oe nylon stuff? I may be off on the size, it has been 20 years since that was current knowledge for me. Also, A1 Cardone, later came out with replacement oe type nylon bushings. If you have an Oreilly's near you, go in there and find the best counterman, he should be able to help you out? Some other brands that mode those things were Motornite and Dorman I believe? If I'm on the right track, and you can't find what you need, shoot me a PM and I'll know someone that can find it if it is out there!
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Free Shipping - Cardone Remanufactured Window Lift Gear Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Power Window Replacement Components at Summit Racing.
If you look at the 1,5,10 o'clock positions in the pic linked above, between the metal gear and the outer nylon gear, you will see the parts I'm talking about.
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Originally posted by tgil View Posthttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...FeRi7AodpV4AHQ
If you look at the 1,5,10 o'clock positions in the pic linked above, between the metal gear and the outer nylon gear, you will see the parts I'm talking about.
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Originally posted by tgil View Posthttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...FeRi7AodpV4AHQ
If you look at the 1,5,10 o'clock positions in the pic linked above, between the metal gear and the outer nylon gear, you will see the parts I'm talking about.
You're the MAN!!
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Originally posted by thorthunder View PostThink I have found you a new in box regulator. Will be back in 30 minutes............
I still have the dilema of whether or not to go ahead and convert to manual. After I put new window seals in, I am worried this back window motor may not have enough umph left in it to get the window up and down. To get the electric windows going, I'm pretty much gonna have to replace the switches, motor, and probably old wiring to make sure that the old stuff isn't draining off too much juice all through the circuit. It might be easier for me if Zach just hand cranked all his windows.
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