Brake job question?

[coker737]

Buy some cheap c clamps. You will need them to compress the calipers. Won't have to open a bleeder valve that way.

Just keep an eye on the reservoir to prevent from spilling over. Yea, I did that once...ONCE

[oktx]

I put the middle of the road auto zone pads on and had terrible dust.

[Chef]

Best brake pads that exist!!!!! http://ebcbrakes.com/

On my F150 the rotors take a specific tool to remove them. The local Advance store wanted $150 to turn them, EACH!!! Had to add that brake job to the budget. $500 for the front, rear is fine.

[shaft]

Just brakes!!

[Hunterdan]

I like the EBC brake pads on my F150's .

[wyatt20019]

Installed the performance friction brake pads and Bosch rotors in the front over the weekend, and wow what a difference! Stopping power is much better.
Rotors really didn't need to be replaced (even though the auto shop swore they were too thin and cracked and warped... Complete BS) so il just get them turned for the next go around.

Doing the rears later this week.

Thanks for the help guys! The job was just as easy as I thought it should be.

[flywise]

Probably the easiest thing you can do yourself
Never pay for a brake job

[Pushbutton2]

Take the cap off of the brake reservoir before canoeing the pistons on your calipers

[BowSlayer]

You're supposed to open the bleeder valve when you compress the calipers not force the fluid back through the system. You can do some real damage forcing fluid back through an ABS system.

[Boomerang]

Quick and easy to do. Unless you wore your pads down to the rivets you probably don't need anything else. A lifetime warranty on pads from any auto parts store are a few dollars more. Cheap ones can wear out. If the lifetime wears out...they are covered and save your receipt. Brakes should last a long time unless you drive with your foot from gas/brake/gas/brake nonstop.

They like to sell more than the pads, and unless you wore them down where it sounds like a jet engine roaring they usually don't need replacing.

[Matt_C]

Buy some cheap c clamps. You will need them to compress the calipers. Won't have to open a bleeder valve that way.

Also, open the brake master cylinder fill spout. When you compress those calipers the pressure (air/or fluid) needs to go somewhere and out the master cylinder is the ideal and it makes compressing the calipers a lot easier.

[Meatstick]

Stick with OEM...and change or rotate the rotors.

[Bucksaw]

I've always used Wagner brand pads on factory rotors with great results. Just make sure you use plenty of "goop" on the back of the pads or they will squeal. I didn't think it was gonna matter much so I didn't use any and got a terrible squeal. Talked to my mechanic and he told me to use the grease on the back of the pads, and that the squeal wasn't from the face of the pad but from vibration of the pad. Smeared some caliper grease on the back of the pads and never got any more squeal.

Now, when I ran 35s I really wanted to run some EBC pads and slotted rotors, but price dictated to go the standard route. This time I'm gong EBC yellow stuff and slotted rotors, or bust.