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    #31
    I would run to a proshop and do some paper tuning. Something is not right. You could use some NAP Nitrons as a test also. I know they fly pretty darn straight. Or NAP Spitfire mechanicals.

    Something is going on. It should not be that far off at 20 yds.

    RD

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      #32
      Even after paper tuning, you may have to bump your rest a hair right or left to find that sweet spot, or maybe bump your nocking point up or down. There are several little tricks to bring them together once you are sure your arrows are helical fletched and your form is correct. Caution!!! A drop away rest will not solve your problem! A properly tuned bow will shoot broadheads with your rest. You may not be able to make the bow shoot a captive rest, depending on the bow. The new parallel limb bows do not seem to like those types, but a drop away is not required!

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        #33
        Just one question, when your bow was tuned, did you shoot it or did someone else? This may sound like a rediculous question to some, but I have seen pro shops that tune your bow for you. Everyone holds a bow differently, make sure it is shooting through the paper well for you. I shoot Muzzy 3 and 4 blade. They shoot great! If you've done all of that, it may be an arrow problem or you may be getting fletching contact. You can put lipstick on the tips of your fletchings and shoot it. This will leave a mark anywhere it may be contacting.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Shake1 View Post
          I have not known field tips and broadheads to fly the same, however, mechanicals and field tips usally will. In my case, before the season starts, I sight my bow in using the hunting broadheads.

          Slick Tricks!

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