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Red Oak tree question

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    #16
    Young Red oaks,along with silver leaf Maples do not care for Pre emergent.I've seen em lose their leaves,and come back pretty strong.Over time it will kill them…You have to stay outside the drip line on young trees with pre emergent…Not saying that's what it was,just a little of what I've come across over the years.

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      #17
      try some of that paint your put on after trimming limbs.

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        #18
        Originally posted by burn'n feather View Post
        try some of that paint your put on after trimming limbs.

        That won't do a lick of good. Preventing oak wilt spread yes. But it's kinda like rubbing mud on a cut.
        That spray doesn't heal. It just hides the problem. For a little while.

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          #19
          Thanks for information, I'll definitely keep these tips in mind when I replant

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            #20
            I was told by a nursery guy, any tree should have a protective wrap on the trunk of the tree until the tree gets old enough for it to have the rough scaly bark, young slick bark tree are highly susceptible to sun damage.

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              #21
              I had this same problem. I live in union valley/poetry area. I'm also in the sandy vein.

              I wrapped my trees on the trunks.
              Used a drench soak (garrett juice) all natural. You can get at lowes. Sprayed the trees with Garrett also. Instructions for drench and spray are on the jug.
              Also used Bayer systemic bug treatment and fertilizer. Comes in a blue bottle and treat once a year with this.

              Everyone said the tree was toast. It's now one if my best looking trees.

              The bark was gone on the southwest side as well. I was told to pick it off. Loose bark just hold water and bugs. The tree will grow around itself.

              Good luck. But I wouldn't give up on them yet.
              Last edited by cattlelackranch; 02-20-2014, 07:12 PM.

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                #22
                Thanks Cattle, you may have convinced me to stay with em atleast another year or 2. I used that Bayor systemic bug(green stuff?) a few months back on each of the trees. So, your not able to tell the bark was damaged on that side now? What did you use to wrap the trees and did you wrap them through all seasons?

                I'm not far from you at all. Do you have to deal with scorpions also?? Hate those buggers!

                Cody

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Codypatt1 View Post
                  Thanks Cattle, you may have convinced me to stay with em atleast another year or 2. I used that Bayor systemic bug(green stuff?) a few months back on each of the trees. So, your not able to tell the bark was damaged on that side now? What did you use to wrap the trees and did you wrap them through all seasons?

                  I'm not far from you at all. Do you have to deal with scorpions also?? Hate those buggers!

                  Cody
                  Ha. As a matter of fact.

                  Killed a scorpion about 30 min ago.

                  I wrapped mine with a white gauze tree wrap sold at some hardware store. You just need something to keep the sun and bugs off but still let it breathe.

                  I also used a slow release tree/shrub granular fertilizer. Im pretty sure 13/13/13.

                  A sick tree will be prone to bug infestation. Get the tree healthy and it should be okay. The Bayer is a great start.

                  You will have to nurse it for a couple years especially this time of year. Your catching it at the right time though.

                  My tree almost doubled its trunk diameter in two years doing this.

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                    #24
                    You can try all sorts of stuff that might help the tree short term but don't waste your time. He gone.

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                      #25
                      If you are on Facebook, post the pics and ask your question on the dirt doctor Howard Garret's Facebook page. He is really good about answering questions. But looking at the pic of it in the ground it looks like it's planted too deep. The flare of the tree should not be covered. Sometimes it takes a couple of years for damage to show. Especially if it's planted too deep.
                      Last edited by .270; 02-20-2014, 10:06 PM.

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                        #26
                        I'll check that out , thanks

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                          #27
                          Looks like 2-4d damage to me.

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                            #28
                            All on the sw side of the tree? Never used 2-4d

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                              #29
                              That resembles a problem we're having with the oaks up here, called hypoxylon canker. It's a fungus that grows under the bark and when the tree gets stressed, the fungus becomes deadly. The first visible symptom we notice is the bark peeling off. About a year later the tree dies and then quickly rots near the base and falls. We have lost well over 10% of the oaks in our woods as it's very contagious. Hope this isn't what your trees have.

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                                #30


                                Here is my tree after recovery. The trunk was completely exposed and all the bark gone. Where the bark is rough now was all exposed. You can see where it has grown over itself and almost closed up. It looked as bad as yours 2 years ago.

                                I will see if I have some before photos.

                                I'm not saying yours will make it. I am saying it is possible with some TLC. If you bend the tips are they brittle or green?
                                Last edited by cattlelackranch; 02-24-2014, 07:33 AM.

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