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Best exterior skin for deer blind?

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    Best exterior skin for deer blind?

    My 6x10 "Taj Mahal" blind I coming along nicely, but I need the TBH brain trust. What is the best exterior material to use for the skin? I was thinking about using hardy board, because it seems like it will last a lifetime and will add to the heaviness/sturdiness of it. What do y'all think?

    To give you an idea of the quality level that I'm going after the floor is constructed of 2 x 6 frames and joists, with three-quarter inch pressure-treated plywood floor plates.
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    #2
    With Hardy board you better have a crane to get that puppy out. It will last I expect, but you can make plywood last a long time too. Just make real sure to get a good coat of primer on it, and then a few good coats of exterior grade paint, and it will last. 3/8" plywood wood be plenty stout, and would last a really long time. It would still be plenty heavy though....

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      #3
      Originally posted by TX_Kevin View Post
      With Hardy board you better have a crane to get that puppy out. It will last I expect, but you can make plywood last a long time too. Just make real sure to get a good coat of primer on it, and then a few good coats of exterior grade paint, and it will last. 3/8" plywood wood be plenty stout, and would last a really long time. It would still be plenty heavy though....
      Ok, so 3/8 plywood with good priming and painting. Gotcha. I was told that combining liquid nails and screws would be the most durable and long-lasting method of attaching the skin to the frame. Do you agree?

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        #4
        I second the plywood sheathing. 9/32' in what I found to be the best and cheapest.

        Find a good tan/green semi-gloss paint in the ooops section and cover it with several coats. Keep up with it and it'll last forever.

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          #5
          With a blind that size, are you ever going to move it? We are building a permanent blind and used lap and gap siding. It's kinda like a hardy board. This is the first one we have done like this and it is easy to work with. Standard saw blades cut the siding. We backed it with roofing felt.




          Still not done with it. Work keeps getting in the way. We have also used R Panel tin, but it's a pain to mess with

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            #6
            Originally posted by Smart View Post
            I second the plywood sheathing. 9/32' in what I found to be the best and cheapest.

            Find a good tan/green semi-gloss paint in the ooops section and cover it with several coats. Keep up with it and it'll last forever.
            Thanks! By "keep up with it", do you mean to repaint every X years? Obviously I'd ensure the caulking/sealing was always kept up with, and I plan to insulate it also, as well as have it under the shade of a large tree. I figure the tree will help reduce weathering and sun exposure, and should - along with the insulation - help keep it cool(er) in the summer.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Smart View Post
              I second the plywood sheathing. 9/32' in what I found to be the best and cheapest.

              Find a good tan/green semi-gloss paint in the ooops section and cover it with several coats. Keep up with it and it'll last forever.
              You can get this paint by the 5 and 2.5 gallon bucket for free at the Austin Recycling center near I-35 and Hwy 71 on the south side of Austin

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                #8
                Originally posted by Tye View Post
                With a blind that size, are you ever going to move it? We are building a permanent blind and used lap and gap siding. It's kinda like a hardy board. This is the first one we have done like this and it is easy to work with. Standard saw blades cut the siding. We backed it with roofing felt.




                Still not done with it. Work keeps getting in the way. We have also used R Panel tin, but it's a pain to mess with
                Whoo, that's one awesome looking blind! When can I move in?

                Yes, my blind will also be permanent. I'm going to finish building all six sides in my garage, then trailer it all out to the ranch for final assembly.

                I wanted it to be six feet up, but my buddy informed me the 10x10 steel tower with all the bells and whistles was going to run $1300 (eek), so I might look into a solution like yours to give it perhaps 3-4' of elevation.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by TXJIM View Post
                  You can get this paint by the 5 and 2.5 gallon bucket for free at the Austin Recycling center near I-35 and Hwy 71 on the south side of Austin
                  you can find some good deals there.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by TXJIM View Post
                    You can get this paint by the 5 and 2.5 gallon bucket for free at the Austin Recycling center near I-35 and Hwy 71 on the south side of Austin
                    Dude! I'm giving you a huge e-high5 for the tip - thanks!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Sneaky View Post
                      Whoo, that's one awesome looking blind! When can I move in?

                      Yes, my blind will also be permanent. I'm going to finish building all six sides in my garage, then trailer it all out to the ranch for final assembly.

                      I wanted it to be six feet up, but my buddy informed me the 10x10 steel tower with all the bells and whistles was going to run $1300 (eek), so I might look into a solution like yours to give it perhaps 3-4' of elevation.
                      That is exactly what we did. Built all the sides in the garage and precut the roof rafters. All of our blinds have been done this way and they go together easily, especially if you have some help





                      We prebuilt the base as well and cut 4x4x10' posts in half. Used those cement blocks to keep the wood posts off the ground

                      Be sure to make the base sturdy. It will sag if you don't

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                        #12
                        Paint it with a good quality primer 1st.

                        Use drip edge over all the corners and exposed edges you can, and I would use 4" angle flaching over the windows for a "gutter". Good paint is a must, but you have to keep water off the plywood edges at all costs.

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                          #13
                          This is how the lap and gap works. It has something like a 50 year warranty

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                            #14
                            I'm sure glad I didn't post a picture of the littlle 4X6 blind I built for my gf!

                            Nice work fellas!

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                              #15
                              Hard to beat steel though.

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