Welding to 55 Gallon drums stick style?????

[BrianL]

During my lastest project I need to weld 1" and 3/4" black pipe couplers to the sides of 55 gallon drums. This is kicking my butt. I'm using 6013 in 3/32" at 50-55 amps. My beads look like dirt dobber poop, and will leak test tonight but I have my doubts on them passing! ANy tricks you all can share to keep from burning thru the barrels? Everything is paint free before welding.

[LeifBarnes]

grind them to bare metal first.

[RR 314]

Rods and amps sound about right. Try knocking the amps down a tad and see how it works. I think I used 7018 rods last time I welded on drums but can't remember for sure.

If you aren't pleased with the results I would cut some angle or strap and place it inside the drum and bolt to it. You can then burn through the barrel (if you want to weld) and weld the leg supports to the heavier metal and fill in with a bead or caulk. If you need more steel on the leg mounts just weld a little strap to it and simply use bolts/caulk to ensure no moisture penetrates.

[BrianL]

I am, but still burning thru. When I cut the heat down below 50 I don't get enough penetration in the couplers.

[cosmiccowboy]

Try striking and establishing your arc on the heavier coupling and then "buttering" your puddle to the barrel. I would also use 3/32 6011 if I was doing it.

[cosmiccowboy]

good point on using a backer plate.

[JTeLarkin08]

Is it for a feeder? When i make mine i bolt them on the barrel and then just barely weld it. Its really hard to not burn through with a stick welder. The legs hold great if you bolt them first though.

[BrianL]

These barrels are being used to produce biodiesel, so the have to be leak free. I will need to weld legs to them as well.

[RR 314]

These barrels are being used to produce biodiesel, so the have to be leak free. I will need to weld legs to them as well.

For the legs, build a square shaped frame out of square tubing and place the barrels on top and simply tack the heavier bottom of the barrel to the frame. Build your legs off the base.

If you need to weld the couplers and can't get it done with the stick see if someone will let you borrow a wire welder or consider a grommet or seal to prevent leaks.

[Bones]

I have done it a couple of different ways but here is the best, easiest and strongest that I have found............ DON'T weld to the barrel its self.

Get a couple of the bands from removable top barrels, place them around the ribs on the barrel, tighten and weld the legs to the bands instead. They are much heavier and stronger and you never even touch the barrel itself so there is no threat of degrading its integrity.

Steve

[AggieHunter]

Ditto on what CC said... You need to make sure you are keeping your heat on the thicker metal then just quickly roll it over onto the barrel... Also, are you welding the side of the couplers (left drawing)to the drum or are you welding it on end (right drawing)... If your welding the coupler on the side, part of the problem your having is that its hard to get a weld to penetrate down into the gap that is created w/out getting the barrel too hot. And if you try to fill in the gap w/out penetrating all the way down, your probably spending a lot of time welding--stopping---cooling---welding---stopping---etc. That could be where the "dobber" look is coming from

[big_smith]

Not a pro by any means, and I weld mostly with Mig, which would be a problem. However, welding heavy gauge to light gauge can be a problem with both methods. As said above you arc on the heavy metal, and then "whip" your puddle onto the thin metal. That way most of the heat is on the thicker metal and you don't burn through.

[Bones]

Oops, I guess that wont work if you are welding in couplers or bungs.....

Steve

[DavidH]

Is the top of the barrel open? If so, could you use electrical hubs (Myers hubs) w/ rubber seals for contact w/ barrel. I've used this method for plumbing water from our rain water gathering barrels to our sink at the camp.

[cosmiccowboy]

Seriously, try using 6011...it's a tad harder to establish and maintain the arc until you get used to it but it has less flux than 6013 and you can see your puddle better...also, 6013 is a "fast freeze" rod and thats why you are having problems with it either burning through or freezing before it gets adequate penetration. Welding thick to thin you have a very narrow window to get it right and a fast freeze rod makes it even more difficult.