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Paper Tune or Walk Back?

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    Paper Tune or Walk Back?

    Which is better and why, or are they both necessary? I've been shooting extremely well for the last two weeks with just field tips. Introduce fixed blade broad heads today, and it is a different story. I kept tweaking my rest in one direction to get the bh's to hit where I wanted them and then tweaking the sight a little to. At the end of the day, both were hitting at 50 yards. Shooting again later this evening, it appeared that my arrows were kicking a little bit. I'm not happy at the moment, but I am not going to give up and go mechanical for elk.

    Suggestions?

    #2
    I start with paper and the ol fast actin tenactin on the vanes later to check fletch clearance. Then do a walk back tune for a final field tip tune. That usually leaves me very little broadhead tuning to mess with.

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      #3
      What ragin said. I find in very necessary to do both before bh tuning. There is a broadhead tuning chart you can find that will get your bh hitting with fp

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        #4
        Originally posted by Ragin' View Post
        I start with paper and the ol fast actin tenactin on the vanes later to check fletch clearance. Then do a walk back tune for a final field tip tune. That usually leaves me very little broadhead tuning to mess with.


        I agree,

        Start off with paper tuning.

        Then do a walk back tune.

        Only then put a broad head on and do the final broad head tuning.

        The end result of a tuned bow is your field points and broad heads impacting on the same spot.

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          #5
          I agree both are very necessary

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            #6
            I'd do a bare shaft tune. I start with regular paper tuning then move to bare shaft. Get that flying true and your good to go

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              #7
              Originally posted by Texas-Red View Post
              I'd do a bare shaft tune. I start with regular paper tuning then move to bare shaft. Get that flying true and your good to go
              Make sure you understand I am not being arguemenative here. And I dont believe in over tuning. But since I shoot Trad and compounds I never had bare shaft tuning really help much coming off a rest and a compound. My Recurve, oh hell yes.... But those are 2 different animals...

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                #8
                Thanks for the info. Going to be a long day, but I want to do it right.

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                  #9
                  It sounds like the right advise. Post up and let us know how this works out for you. Good luck this season, and hope you get a shot at an elk.

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                    #10
                    Ok, so I started out this morning with a pretty good tail right. I was out of left/right adjustment on my rest, so I moved the launcher arm over on the rod. After this move, my fp were tearing a bullet hole. I played with the fp's for a bit to get my pins back on, then moved to bh's. They were pretty close, but still a little to the left. I quit early today to spend some time with my boys. I'll take another whack at it tomorrow.

                    I was pretty shocked when I did this and got the results I did. I had this bow set up two years ago, and haven't really had any problems with it. Just goes to show that shooting mechanicals can hide some real issues. I guess the laser center shot thingy at the shop just gets you close. I'm sure that some of it could be possibly attributed to form too.

                    I'll try to remember to post more when I get it dialed in.

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                      #11
                      iive had that prob too any hint for this

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