Eliminator Plate - Problem

[Hockley]

Didn't want to hi-jack the other mans thread so I started my own. I have two eliminators and one has been a problem. It keeps getting stuck and will not go back up. I can play with it to get it loosened up and oil it but it will eventually fail again. What do you use for lubrication?

[one66stang]

I have had mine stick but it was due to corn getting stuck in the links.

[byrne361]

Just had the same problem yesterday,I was hoping to spray it with some WD-40 but now you have me worried.

[Hockley]

It's a problem becuase when it gets stuck down a coon can "eliminate" your corn over night!

[byrne361]

I just read the other thread and it says to use graphite lubricant.

[Hockley]

Did they say where to get it or give a brand name?

[byrne361]

This is what was suggested.

http://www.blastercorporation.com/Graphite-Dry-Lube.html

[Skinny]

Certainly make sure a kernel isn't in the link....

Skinny

[TexasRed]

Would a spray silicone lubricant be good for this?

[Dale Moser]

Mine hasn't needed any lube, and I've had no trouble with kernels in the links. I imagine that's because of the power of that 12v motor.

I use the PB blaster dry lube on my spin techs though. Anything greasy is worse than nothing IMO.

[TexasRed]

Will the silicone be greasy? Lots and lots of dust where I am.

[Luck_of_the_Draw]

A "wet" lubricant will collect dust.


Use the dry graphite.

[brownwdbwhunter]

Also check the screw , that is on the shaft. I've had problems with the screws

[CastAndBlast]

They do not need lube. We made this mistake in the beginning. One thing to make sure of is that the plate is fully extended at rest. There should be no "break" in the chain links at rest.

[BolilloLoco]

I have had 4 of these things out in the field since their introduction and have had trouble with them since day one. But when functioning, they are the best spin plates out there. So I keep repairing them. Do not put WD-40 on these plates!!! They are getting stuck because the aluminum shaft is oxidizing and the bushing is getting in a bind. Some get stuck in the up position and some get stuck in the down position. For this reason, I use the biggest varmint guard that I can fit under the feeder. The best way to fix this problem is to disassemble the plate and clean the shaft with emory cloth or very fine grit sandpaper every 2-3 months. I lubricate with a teflon non-stick dry film from DuPont. The kernel in the link can be repaired by putting a zip tie around one of the links to fill the space where the kernels get stuck. I have had two plates come apart from kernels hitting the clips holding the links together. You just have to go to the hardware store and buy new clips when this happens. Or try to return the unit to your point of purchase. The manufacturer is aware of all these problems and claims that the newer models will not have these same issues.