Insulating a house?

[Bearkat]

My is sprayed foamed and wouldn't change a thing. I design homes and we foam everything. The cost wasn't that much differnece. Around $2000. Doesn't take long to recoupe at 150 a month savings. Above post are correct in plan ahead and put all exterior wiring in conduit.

[RutnBuk]

My is sprayed foamed and wouldn't change a thing. I design homes and we foam everything. The cost wasn't that much differnece. Around $2000. Doesn't take long to recoupe at 150 a month savings. Above post are correct in plan ahead and put all exterior wiring in conduit.

When you say "all exterior wiring" are you referring to the wire in the walls?

[RutnBuk]

I plan on doing the full encapsulated system and since I am the builder I will take care of everything myself before I have it insulated. Thanks for all the info. I am most likely going to give it a try.

[Keg]

I have 5-6 inches in the walls and 8 inches under roof....The house is sealed up tight....The only problem I have is havin enough draft for my fireplace in the winter....I have to end up cracking open a window on the south side....I've got to figure out how to take care of this problem....

[Extremebowman]

I have 5-6 inches in the walls and 8 inches under roof....The house is sealed up tight....The only problem I have is havin enough draft for my fireplace in the winter....I have to end up cracking open a window on the south side....I've got to figure out how to take care of this problem....

Yes sir, fire needs combustion air. Most Isokern / Fire Rock / masonry fireplaces have a fresh air duct ran to outside air. Sounds like yours doesn't. I don't know where you're located, but there just so happens to be a fireplace guy on board

[Iolabowhunter]

A few things I have learned from it.

1) If you spray the underside of your roof deck you may not know you have a roof leak until your decking rots and you feel it when walking across the roof.

2) Limit what is in your exterior insulated walls as much as possible.

3) Run everything in your exterior walls in conduit.

4) Draw-up exact as-builts of everything in the insulated walls so you will know exactly where everything is. Photos prior to insulating as well.

5) If you think you only need one electrical outlet on an insulated wall, put two or three.

I agree with all of the above, but dont forget about a make up air system. With such a tight house and with all of the different exhaust systems (exhaust fans;bath, stove and fireplace draws) you will be creating a negitive air pressure inside the home. A smaller ton unit will be necessary and as mentioned before your A/C contractor will hae to be on his toes to avoid any moisture problems. From my understanding of this type of insulating, you can't go wrong if installed properly.

[Sticks&Strings]

If these homes are that tight, dont you think there is a possibility the house could sweat. Like windows do in humid environments? And if it sweated wouldn't it be contained between the foam and tyvek??? Say where the osb or plywood is. And IF that happened it would go unknown for years until the sheathing and 2x4's were rotten. Not saying it happens but sure seems like it could. Maybe I dont know but ive talked to others in the industry and im nit the only one that still doubts it. Especially for a small savings of approx $900 per year. Ill stick with bibs or batts and pay a little extra each month and use that extra initial savings for my utility bills. Or invest it.

[Keg]

Yes sir, fire needs combustion air. Most Isokern / Fire Rock / masonry fireplaces have a fresh air duct ran to outside air. Sounds like yours doesn't. I don't know where you're located, but there just so happens to be a fireplace guy on board

I will be sending U a pm.....

If these homes are that tight, dont you think there is a possibility the house could sweat. Like windows do in humid environments? And if it sweated wouldn't it be contained between the foam and tyvek??? Say where the osb or plywood is. And IF that happened it would go unknown for years until the sheathing and 2x4's were rotten. Not saying it happens but sure seems like it could. Maybe I dont know but ive talked to others in the industry and im nit the only one that still doubts it. Especially for a small savings of approx $900 per year. Ill stick with bibs or batts and pay a little extra each month and use that extra initial savings for my utility bills. Or invest it.

My home is a steel home....I have been in it going on 4 yrs now....I have checked the attic summer and winter....There has been well over 100 degree summers and winters that are so so..not been extremely cold the past few yrs....I have found no evidence of any moisture....I move out of a convenional brick home..that was the same sq ft....My utility bills are half what they were....I figured a saving approx. $1680 per year on utilities....The extra cost of foam insulation was offset 2 yrs ago....

[TICK MAGNET]

I did a cost saving analysis and decided to just spray foam the attic and not the exterior walls. The attic is only a few degrees warmer than the rest of the house, and my electric bill has been no higher than $150 on a 2400 sq ft house. I figured it would take around 30 years to recoup the additional costs of foaming the exterior walls as well. Most of the savings on your energy bill will come from the foam in the attic.