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Trapping Bobcats

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    Trapping Bobcats

    What is the best trap to use and what do you all use to bait with? Any ideas, tips, tricks, etc are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    I've had good success with the following setup.

    We take a live chicken and put it in a little wire cage (like a rabbit cage or something). Push the cage up against some very thick brush and block off the sides with more brush (forces the cat to approach from the front). Then we bed two #2 coilspring traps in front of the cage. Usually set up on the edge of a clearing and used some kind of comercial call lure. Check your setups according to the state law, I believe every 24hrs on non-killing traps. (better check to be sure) Has worked for me several times. Good luck.

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      #3
      Have to agree with crittergetter--have been told that by state trappers

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        #4
        I hang a quail or bird wing as an attractor and make a standard dirt hole set with a number 2 or 3 coil spring trap. Use a cat gland lure and spread a few feathers around like something killed a quail and buried the leftovers. I usually spray a little grey fox urine to remove suspicion of what made the hole. Google dirt hole set and you will find some info if you do not know how to make one. If you want to become good at it get the DVD Hardcore Cat and Coyote Trapping. It is very well done. ET

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          #5
          Over in Africa they trapped a couple small cats. Had a large looking livetrap coon trap with the closing door. Inside the trap was another sealed off compartment where they placed a live guina (sp?). The trigger to the door was a foot plate near the live bait so when the cat stepped on it the door closed. It was pretty sweet. I might have a pic somewhere.

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            #6
            It is much quicker and or productive to use either snairs or steel leg hold traps. Often times a cat will just walk around a cage trap and not enter it, even with live bate at the back.

            I personally use a sent post set(Bobcat urine with droppings) that has one #3or #4 Victor coil spring. The set up has to be close to a trail that a cat travels on regualarly basis.

            I also use a cubby set with feathers as an eye atractact.

            I tie my traps down with a rebar stake that has a swivel at the stake and another swivel halfway to the trap and of course a swivel at the trap itself.
            I keep my trap chains fairly short (2 to 3 feet) and this prevents the cat or coyote from getting a running start, which could pull a toe off when they lunge.

            The best advise I can give anyone is to go to a book store and purchase a Fur-Fish & Game magazine and order some of the small paperback books on trapping. Most of these books will give you all the information that you will need.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Flint knapper View Post
              It is much quicker and or productive to use either snairs or steel leg hold traps. Often times a cat will just walk around a cage trap and not enter it, even with live bate at the back.

              I personally use a sent post set(Bobcat urine with droppings) that has one #3or #4 Victor coil spring. The set up has to be close to a trail that a cat travels on regualarly basis.

              I also use a cubby set with feathers as an eye atractact.

              I tie my traps down with a rebar stake that has a swivel at the stake and another swivel halfway to the trap and of course a swivel at the trap itself.
              I keep my trap chains fairly short (2 to 3 feet) and this prevents the cat or coyote from getting a running start, which could pull a toe off when they lunge.

              The best advise I can give anyone is to go to a book store and purchase a Fur-Fish & Game magazine and order some of the small paperback books on trapping. Most of these books will give you all the information that you will need.
              I use the same thing except I use a drag instead of chaining the trap to the ground.....
              Attached Files

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                #8
                Below is a pic of a basic cage set-up I use. Most of my cages are 15"-18" tall, 12" wide and 36"-48" long. I like a good bush or cactus to back the trap into so it forces the cat to work the front of the cage and I then I cover the floor of the cage with dirt so the cat isn't stepping on the wire mesh. As you can see I also place a couple of limbs at each side of the door to act as guides to lead them towards the door. I use cat urine around the set and throw some feathers around the opening with some good, fresh bait in the back (bird wing, rabbit, etc. hanging from the top of the cage at the very back. I've even used a piece of faux fur with two craft store eyes glued on it and then I hang it from the back of the cage. I also like to use red tinsel (like that's used on a Christmas tree) hanging 4-5 feet above the cage from a limb. A cd, dvd. or a pie plate hung by monofiliment will work good, too. It's just something that will move and flash in the breeze and get the cat's attention.

                Also, I use a good, strong lure at the set. There are a ton of good cat lures on the market. I honestly think you're going to catch more cats with good eye appeal than you are with scent, but I use both just to be sure. Live bait like a rooster, etc. is a killer on cats and other predators like gray fox, ringtails, etc., but I don't have time to tend to a rooster in an effort to keep it alive.

                Hope this helps and let us know know you do. I'd rather use footholds as they are easier to transport and I can find set locations for them easier, but cage trapping is fun and has its place, too. In the photo below, this trap was set a few feet off of a dirt road that had cat tracks running up and down it. I'm a strong believer in setting along trails, creek beds and roads. Just be sure you don't have to worry about trap theives that might be driving down the road. If it concerns you, then just set off of good trails or less traveled roads where you're seeing cat sign and keep it out of sight from the road the best you can.

                Cat's aren't smart, you just have to hit them over the head sometimes to get their attention to come and investigate your set. The more eye appeal, the better!



                predatorsniper

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                  #9
                  get onto www.texaspredatorposse.com lots of guys trap on that site, one of which is a hunting buddy of mine, and he is very succesful...lots of good guys and good info on there...

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                    #10
                    I always singed the feathers on a small dead bird and hung it about 3 feet off the ground, setting the trap with a drag underneath. It always worked well for me.

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                      #11
                      TTT, thanks guys, what are you using as lures and baits in these stands?

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                        #12
                        Hillcountry the cat the guy in the white shirt is holding sure has a good looking pelt. Congrats on the catches.

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                          #13
                          I remember my dad trapping when I was really young. Since I got my first bobcat and others to mount, my dad has been asking for the bladders. I am not sure of how he set it up, but he said he uses the bobcat urine because the only thing you will catch is bobcats. I will try to find out and let you know.

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                            #14
                            If the cat is wary, wire your trap open for a week or so and let him get used to going in and getting the bait. Then, unwire it and you'll have him.

                            This also works well on mountain lions.

                            Good Luck

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                              #15
                              I have heard of using domestic cat scat for luring bobcats to trap sets.

                              I would be glad to give someone a couple of scat production devices from around the house. Just don tell the girls.

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