Who makes a good drill bit?

[Dale Moser]

Dale: that is really dangerous! Unless you dont mind a broken wrist...

I know. I had the handle of the drill braced against my chest, and yes it bruised me. I had to cut 10 of those 13/16 holes and there was nothing fun about it.

[Keith]

precision twist, osg, sgs, triumph twist, chicago latrobe, cleveland... just to name a few. Make sure they are made in USA and not import crap.

Also its all about speed and heat. wd-40 works fine for casual use for lubrication.

Dale: that is really dangerous! Unless you dont mind a broken wrist...

Cleveland Severance, and Putnam make a good drill.

OSG, Guhring, Accupro......

I'm familiar with most of the above brands. They are high quality bits. Your metal may be work hardening from either the welding, or over heating the metal while drilling. If you quench it to cool it after welding, it will be even harder to drill. Then nothing but carbide will drill it. Solid carbide will work, but they are expensive and break easily if you get them in a bind.

[Graysonhogs]

Drill Doctor works well for the smaller drills.

[Graysonhogs]

Just saw where it was a bunch of 15 year olds... I have no advice for that. Lol. Godspeed.

[Bucksaw]

well, 15-18.

[ram6256]

Offer reward for least number bits used per shift.
Roy

[UncleBubba]

It's going to be hard keeping sharp drill with that bunch. Teach them to sharpen their own on a grinding wheel!

[Jp.]

Drill press.
[ATTACH]483619[/ATTACH]

Dale, you rock

I drill holes in hard metals and soft metals for a living. For hard metals such as hardened steel and titanium I like to use carbide tipped drills in a jobber length. I prefer to start off, when drilling large holes, with a pilot hole first and then step up as needed. Keep the rpm's low, around 500 rpm. You should be able to see the flutes of the bit clearly as the bit rotates. I use plenty of pressure and lots of lubricant. Keep the bit cool. If the metal gets hot it will crystallize or temper and become even harder to drill even with a diamond tip drill. Carbide tip drills can lose their tip when coming out the backside so as the bit is about to break through ease up on the pressure.
A 7/32 hole is a .218. For that size I would start out with a .191 pilot hole. If that is still too hard then you might try a pilot hole of .128 then .191 then .218.

For softer metals such as aluminum or soft steel any carbon steel cutting bit will do. For aluminum almost any speed will do. I've used drill motors as fast as 6,000 rpm on aluminum. For softer steel I would keep the rpm's under 1,000. Using lubricant is a must for all applications if you want longevity out of your bits. Keep the bit and the metal from getting hot.

I don't know where my company gets it's bits from but it may be Grainger.

If your just wanting to slam holes in somthing then by all means keep going but if you want to drill holes, this man right here ^^ is A number one.
I love my diamond bits and countersinks for composites but boy the company pays out the nose for them. And when you turn in for a replacement it had better be used up. We get them from Putnam.
And another thing if your snapping bits, you are what we call hole breaking and need to slow down the bit at hole break or your not drilling a straight hole.

And Geoff I also love my 3 i/rand skin drills, I hope they last me another 20 years till I retire.

[dclifton]

I'd either drill up from the bottom, transfer punch, or have something that fit in the hole and had a point sticking up. Lay board on, tap, flip and drill. Sometimes and single question warrants more than a one word answer.

Yea I figured that would be the only way. It seems it would be a lot easier to just find a good drill bit that's what we usually do. Or spend money on really good self tapping screws. But sometimes it can just be a pia

[Buckwheat]

We have the same problem in our shop. We replace floors in 27',45',48'& 53' trailers. It's nothin to go through half dozen bits. And that's doin good. We have a long drill made for this and it snaps or burns up the bits fast.

[Graysonhogs]

Yea I figured that would be the only way. It seems it would be a lot easier to just find a good drill bit that's what we usually do. Or spend money on really good self tapping screws. But sometimes it can just be a pia

Good self tapping would be optimum. I just HATE drilling holes with a hand drill. I'll avoid them at all cost. Lol

[Speedgoat]

Bosch makes the best ive used.

[Jp.]

We have the same problem in our shop. We replace floors in 27',45',48'& 53' trailers. It's nothin to go through half dozen bits. And that's doin good. We have a long drill made for this and it snaps or burns up the bits fast.

Whats you guys drill motor size,rpm's and torque rating? I had a old timer tell me once that if you burn up bits, your rpms was way to fast. He was right.
Also might think of getting a 1/2 inch reversable motor so when it catches at hole break you can reverse it and un catch it.

[Geezy Rider]

Whats you guys drill motor size,rpm's and torque rating? I had a old timer tell me once that if you burn up bits, your rpms was way to fast. He was right.
Also might think of getting a 1/2 inch reversable motor so when it catches at hole break you can reverse it and un catch it.

Good point. ^^^^

Also you might look into using pneumatic drill motors instead of electric. I makes a big difference.

Jp, my favorite motor are the older Sioux motors. Great variable speed triggers and very strong.

[Andy]

ExpressFish

I believe the drill doctors are worth the money I love mine I think it is the 750 or something like that,,,,,,,Andy