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Does it matter if you're broadheads spin true on your arrows?

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    #16
    Yes sir, spin matters

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      #17
      Originally posted by Skullworks52 View Post
      Makes since. also from what ive read and simple understanding is that the shorter something is the straight it is... an in a shorter bh is harder to be bent than a loger bh. correct?
      A shorter BH will not be off as much in total deviation in inches, but it can still be off by the same degree, and would most likely have just as bad an effect because the planing surface is at the same angle.

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        #18
        I would say it matters

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          #19
          And the I Says have it.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Skullworks52 View Post
            Makes since. also from what ive read and simple understanding is that the shorter something is the straight it is... an in a shorter bh is harder to be bent than a loger bh. correct?
            There are poorly made ferrules as well, but I have usually found the insert and/or poorly cut shafts to be the culprit.

            Using a good arrow squaring device on the shafts after cutting is a good practice.

            When doing the spin testing, use hot melt glue on the inserts, that way as you spin and see any wobble, you can replace BH with a field point, apply heat to the point until it softens the glue, rotate insert slightly(1/4 turn), spin-test, repeat. If you make a full rotation and still wobbles, toss that insert and start over. When you find a point where you get true spin, mark the edge of the insert and shaft, then reinsert with your preferred glue. Frankly, I use plain ole hot melt craft glue sticks, even on my target shafts, out of 1000's of shots at indoor bales and 3D targets, I've had maybe 3 pull out.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Skullworks52 View Post
              how do you glue an insert in thats not straight? isnt there only a couple thousands or a gap between the arrow and insert?
              I put in field point, heated up with propane torch, pulled out, wiped off old, hot glue, put on more hot glue and pushed back in. There's not much of a gap but it fixed the alignment problem.

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                #22
                OK then, what about lining up your broadhead blades with your fletchings. I used to do that but don't any more. Does that matter?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by quarterback View Post
                  OK then, what about lining up your broadhead blades with your fletchings. I used to do that but don't any more. Does that matter?
                  No. How would you line up a 4 blade BH with 3 vanes?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by bowhuntntxn View Post
                    No. How would you line up a 4 blade BH with 3 vanes?
                    I dont notice any difference?

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                      #25
                      Lining up blades with vanes is aesthetic.

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                        #26
                        Matters to me.

                        I have found (for myself) that even some broadheads will impact different just by rotating the nock slightly.
                        I shoot 4 fletch, and two blade cut on contacts with bleeder blades (except for the German Kinetics) if one hits repeatably 1" left i first try rotating the nock a quarter turn. some times this corrects and brings it in.... ( I prefer to have my broadheads at 10 to 4 (meaning at full draw while that razor is close to my finger area the top of the blade is at 10 o'clock and the bottom at 4 o'clock)

                        But the very first test any broadhead gets is the spin test to see wobble... it may wobble in one shaft but not another also
                        everything manufactured has +/- tolerances. you have to match things in my book JMHO

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                          #27
                          Thank you for confirming what I already knew to be true.

                          The manufacturer in question is G5.

                          I've been shooting the G5 Strikers 125 grain broadheads and they have a brass collar that gets indented when shot into a target. After a couple shots the broadhead won't spin true and next thing you know you get a "flier" that is off the mark by 4"-8".

                          Take it back to spin test it and it's off, even though you went through every combination of brass collars and even replacing blades to make absolutely sure that it spun perfectly true before it went into the quiver.

                          The response from G5
                          Originally posted by G5
                          The reason is we have done all kinds of testing on spinning of broadheads and found very little to no difference on a broadhead to no difference on a broadhead that spins perfect to one that is up words of 1/8" plus out of straightness in tuning on a arrow that was well fit for the bow. Where we have found quite a bit difference when the arrow is not tuned for the bow or is on the edge of being under or over spined.

                          Not what I was expecting when I contacted G5 for a solution to the problem.

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                            #28
                            No, it does not. If you sight your hunting arrows in and it shoots true, that is.

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                              #29
                              It will not matter if the shot is with in 10-20 yards.
                              Sure they might not touch each other but i believe they(the arrows) will be with in an inch or two.

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                                #30
                                Absolutely it matters.

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