Paper Tuning - Need an Interpreter!!!!! please

[Leftridge]

I thought I would paper tune my bow after changing the rest and pounds - and since I had never before. Got on goldtips website and got some instuctions, went home then shot some paper...I have know idea what these marks mean.

It looks like I'm out of tune with the point not entering in the center. I circled all the point entrances. But since ever one seems in a different spot I dont know what to do...????

I moved my nock point up a bit and shot the three in photo #3 on the right..They look pretty close..Then I shot the three in photo #3 on the left and back to having no idea????

VERY FRUSTRATING and there is no good bow shop in town..

Any help would be appreciated!

[Downwind]

You can download a tuning guide at Easton.com It is 32 pages long, explains how to tune, what the tears mean and how to correct it.

[Richard M.]

How far away were you from the paper? Those look like they are caused from torquing the bow.

[Chew]

Torquing the bow was my first guess as well. You should have consistent tears. Let somebody else shoot your bow if possible. Open your hand and let the bow rest there without gripping it. Also put some lipstick or something on your rest and see if you're getting vane contact.

[Leftridge]

I was about 6-7 feet away..Tried hard to be consistant with anchor..I know I'm close on the vanes..Shooting Blazers and I can tell there is not much clearance but I'm thinking they are clearing by a few thousandths...

[Goldeneagle]

Definately some operator error in there. Too tight of a grip or punching the trigger or both.
Also, your draw length may be too short. This causes your bow arm to kind of go nuts when you release.

[ken]

If you did not adjust anything and the tears changed it is probably you and not the bow. Like some of the others I suspect you are torquing the bow. Torquing is when you squeeze the grip and bow can't align itself the way it wants to. Try keeping you hand open and only letting your index finger and thumb touch or use a sling and shoot with a completely open hand.

Also remember paper tuning is only a start. More importantly for hunting is how your field points and broadheads group with each other.

[woody]

I could be wrong, but i think a low nocking point can also cause this. I dont have my Easton tuning guide in front of me, but the tuning guide will give you illustrations and walk you step by step through the paper tuning process. Just remember, if you are left handed {as i am}, your movements of the arrow rest left or right will be opposite of the instruction given for right handed persons. As the gentleman said, go to Easton's website and print off the tuning guide, then paper tune your bow. You can make your own paper tuning frame by following the instructions posted in the Do It Yourself section of this website. Once I tuned mine, I had the exact same point of impact for field tips as i did for my broadheads out to 30 yards. I could shoot 3-D or hunt with no adjustment to my sights. Unfortunately, a screw came loose on my arrow rest and i lost my perfect tune. I got it back pretty close, but i need to dedicate some time to finish tuning the bow. You can get it really tuned using the tuning guide and then lock eveything down so it will stay. Good luck. Woody

[Leftridge]

Thanks to all..I'll shoot some more and see if it is me..I always shoot with an open hand when I'm conscious of it..I prefer it be me than the bow!

[Humper]

this one was always helpful for me....

[q2xlman]

If you shoot open handed, make sure you're not catching the bow on release. This can really change how you shoot. If you're not sure about fletching contact, borrow some lipstick and put some on each edge of each fletching. Shoot the bow and if you have any lipstick on the cable, riser, or rest, this is at least one of your problems.

[bboswell]

Fletch contact. They will all hit a tad different causing different tears.

Hand tourqe can be in there as well but that normally shows up as left and right tears; your are up and down along with left and right.

[Leftridge]

I'll check the fletch issues..

I went home at lunch and reshot the arrows paying attending to grip, release..SAME results as before..All entrances just a bit different...I did note that many of arrows the would give the exact same individual entrance spot each time..That might be fletches then...

So I shot a group at 45yd..Here is the result...



Five in a group w/ 2 fliers that I know were was all me...

Say it were fletches touching..What is the solution? I think I have them turned in the best direction..Using the Ultra Rest LD..Are there any other options besides changing fletching? I can't move the rest out cause that changes my center...

[duck or bleed]

Rocky should chime in here tonight! He knows more about paper tuning than anybody I know! It is like he's reading words on the paper! Unbelievable!

[Richard M.]

If your not torquing the bow, then it could be fletching contact. Check all your arrows to see that they all line up the same way when nocked. Also you can put some powder or lipstick on the vanes to check for contact.