Any suggestions on bait for trapping fox. Im doing some trapping up around Fredericksberg. Im using Duke #2 Steel foot traps.
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You need to read up online on making either a urine post set or a dirt hole set if you haven't already. Baits are used only on dirt hole sets, but both use fox urine as attractant. Both coyotes and foxes can be trapped at either. I have never used #2 traps for fox, only 4 coil #4 traps. I dont know why #2 wouldn't work however.
A dirt hole set works well with most any "ripe" meat down in the hole and spraying fox urine around the hole. Beaver castor is also attractive to both fox and coyote.
A urine post relies on merely spraying fox urine on a wood post that attracts the fox to step on the trap pad as he leaves his own urine sign.
You can buy all this at a trapper supply website. Suggest you also check with TPWD as trapping season is open in late Fall through March and I believe closed right now. You are legally and ethically obligated to check the trap daily as well.
Hope I'm not stating too many things you already know here.Last edited by Pineywoods Paul; 06-18-2012, 09:11 PM.
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Originally posted by Pineywoods Paul View PostSuggest you also check with TPWD as trapping season is open in late Fall through March and I believe closed right now. You are legally and ethically obligated to check the trap daily as well.
If you're going to sell them, then yes the commercial season is from November 1 to March 31 for foxes. You also need a trapper's license to sell the pelts.
If you're just doing for yourself to mount, eradicate, etc. and not for resale, then the season is open from September 1 to August 31(all year).
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I do a good deal of trapping on the ranch for the purposes of controlling the every day onslaught of predators infiltrating the high fence. If I can give the young animals the best chance out of the mouths of hungry yotes, bobcat and grey fox than so be it.
I use a array of snares, conibears, and leg holds.
I'll often use snares on fresh holes,.. and switch on educated dogs to leg holds when they paw the snares.
conibears work wonders when placed "tight" within a hole under the fence,... but armadillos seem to take the worst on these.
I use a variety of gland and lure scents on my trap line. If I can ease the animals or draw some curiosity faster to a set.... catch them and eradicate them,... then I feel I'm on game.
I don't kill the animals there on the trap line. SNARE POLE and move them 30-40 yards away and dispatch. I'd rather have dog/cat smell on the set then BLOOD.
Stay cognoscente of the tracks, scat and hair left around the "DIG UNDERS".
COON CUFFS are great on coons... bunch them in sets with marshmallows to catch multiple coons.
Use VISUAL sets to increase your odds on bob cat.... I use feathers around the leg trap area with a lure scent down a hole, close to my DIG UNDER. trap 12 inches back and to the side of the scent filled hole.
I use just a small tuff of quilt batting underneath my pans to stave off dirt and other debris from getting under pan.
I try my best to NOT GET HUMAN SCENT in the area when installing any trap.
I file my triggers to increase sensitivity..... talk about a fast SNAP !!! It's called NIGHT LATCHING.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcOPxgGan5E"]How to set steel varment traps - YouTube[/ame]
Any other questions ... call me .... happy to help --- 210 836 6892
Last edited by takoma; 06-25-2012, 01:43 PM.
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Ive always done best with dirt hole sets. Really try to minimize human scent if at all possible, it makes a big difference. The best time for me is, to set a whole bunch of traps when you cut hay because the coyotes will smell the grass and come to pick up all the dead mice and rabbits the mower got.
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