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    #16
    Originally posted by Canoe1 View Post

    I’m guessing this might be the issue. We’ve always just opened the dampener full.
    I’ll get it going, then close it off some and see if that’s the issue.
    So, how did it work?

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      #17
      any of yall pipe through spray foam on the wall? if so, how?

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        #18
        Originally posted by black dallas View Post
        any of yall pipe through spray foam on the wall? if so, how?
        Double lined insulated pipe, specifically made for that application

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          #19
          Originally posted by Greenheadless View Post

          Double lined insulated pipe, specifically made for that application
          thank you. I didn't know there was such a thing. I've been wanting a potbellied stove for my shop but was worried about that

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            #20
            Might need a thimble to put in the wall for the pipe to connect to inside and out, stove pipe wall thimble.

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              #21
              Originally posted by black dallas View Post

              thank you. I didn't know there was such a thing. I've been wanting a potbellied stove for my shop but was worried about that
              Be prepared , it is very expensive, I had to run over 15 feet of it because we ran the pipe straight up thru the second floor in place of 90 out and 90 up, the stove guy said I would lose close to 50 % of the stoves efficiency if we did not run a straight pipe, that stuff is like 200.00 a foot.

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                #22
                Originally posted by mjhaverkamp View Post

                Be prepared , it is very expensive, I had to run over 15 feet of it because we ran the pipe straight up thru the second floor in place of 90 out and 90 up, the stove guy said I would lose close to 50 % of the stoves efficiency if we did not run a straight pipe, that stuff is like 200.00 a foot.
                wow...

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by mjhaverkamp View Post

                  Be prepared , it is very expensive, I had to run over 15 feet of it because we ran the pipe straight up thru the second floor in place of 90 out and 90 up, the stove guy said I would lose close to 50 % of the stoves efficiency if we did not run a straight pipe, that stuff is like 200.00 a foot.
                  the 90's kill the draw, mine has two 90's and smokes like a biatch until it good and hot and then it will draw but when its that hot you can't stay in the cabin even with a window open!

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by bboswell View Post

                    the 90's kill the draw, mine has two 90's and smokes like a biatch until it good and hot and then it will draw but when its that hot you can't stay in the cabin even with a window open!
                    The owner of David's stove in Weatherford is who sold everything to me, I had bought the stove from him a few months earlier, did not bother to do any research, went back later to get the stove pipe, that is when I met the owner, he is very nice and knowledgable, he felt bad that I had to spend that amount of money, he said he wished I had of spoke with him before building our barndo, he could have saved me a bunch of money, oh well its all done now, wish it would get cold enough in Childress to burn the stove, right now I think it would run us out of the house if we lit it.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by bboswell View Post

                      the 90's kill the draw, mine has two 90's and smokes like a biatch until it good and hot and then it will draw but when its that hot you can't stay in the cabin even with a window open!
                      45's are considered the same as straight so use multiple of them if possible.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Texas Grown View Post

                        So, how did it work?
                        It did the trick, but now I need to put a mark on the little knob so I remember where shut and full open is.

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