Mechanic Help

[erikm1981]

Can you share which fuses you pull to get the draw to go away.

So what I found last night is that most fuses will cause an immediate drop to .04 or so and if I break the circuit of the multimeter being in series to get the reading and then reconnect the draw still shows back up around 1.62 or so. Put the fuse back in and it stays. So I basically figured that the initial drop is not really telling me anything. So pulling each fuse and then reconnecting the multimeter nothing ever made the number stay low, each fuse that would cause the drop upon rechecking the draw with the fuse still out would still read 1.62

[shiner78]

Have you looked on serria/Silverado forum?

[erikm1981]

Have you looked on serria/Silverado forum?

Yeah that’s where I’ve got most of my troubleshooting so far. But I’m at a dead end now with info because no one has had my issue of all fuses testing out ok and no static drop on the fuse pulling method.

I had the initial hope that the drops I was seeing would lead to something even with multiple fuses showing a drop but come to find out those fuses that were dropping were actually not reducing the draw at all

[mooney_ag]

You’ve got a third fuse box under the dash for your interior

Two ways I would attack it from there. Either will require some wiring schematics.

Trial and error way. remove the top of the fuse panel under the hood. Check and clean the terminals. Remove a connector at a time to narrow down which one is causing the leak. Then break it down from there

diagnostic way. Identify wires and pin outs that are hot without key on. Remove the top of fuse panel and with Dmm begin checking continuity on the pin locations of the connector. You’ll need to know which pin to pin to check and then each pin to ground to look for shorts. Only problem is you’ll need to know what the values of each should be.

we had to do this on my 08 lmm. It was throwing tranny codes and not shifting. Through the Tcm connector and found shorted wires which led to replacing the entire harness rather than Tcm or tranny rebuild.

[erikm1981]

You’ve got a third fuse box under the dash for your interior

Two ways I would attack it from there. Either will require some wiring schematics.

Trial and error way. remove the top of the fuse panel under the hood. Check and clean the terminals. Remove a connector at a time to narrow down which one is causing the leak. Then break it down from there

diagnostic way. Identify wires and pin outs that are hot without key on. Remove the top of fuse panel and with Dmm begin checking continuity on the pin locations of the connector. You’ll need to know which pin to pin to check and then each pin to ground to look for shorts. Only problem is you’ll need to know what the values of each should be.

we had to do this on my 08 lmm. It was throwing tranny codes and not shifting. Through the Tcm connector and found shorted wires which led to replacing the entire harness rather than Tcm or tranny rebuild.

Ok, let me get after the 3rd fuse box as I’ve ran the trial and error method pulling a fuse at a time with the other two boxes the one in the engine compartment and the one on the side of the dash with zero results.

after that then I guess it’s the pain in the butt method!

[Big Lee]

Give me a call. Two5four 2four7 seven8zero5

[erikm1981]

Give me a call. Two5four 2four7 seven8zero5

Yes sir just did. Your voicemail is full my number is 2five4 2zero5 45fiveNine

[erikm1981]

Welp here’s the final word and update!!!!!!

Used my tundra to double check my testing method and make sure my harbor freight multimeter wasn’t a lemon. Tundra read .04 so I know my method and meter are good!

Go back to searching the web for help all dang day today. Come across a forum post about a guy having the same issue with a Honda oddesey. Random internet guy says make sure if you are using a multimeter that DOES NOT have clamps to hold your pins on the terminals for about a minute to minute and half. Well CRAP, meter reads .03 after a minute of holding it to post. Apparently the Chevy wakes up by just connecting the meter in series to get a reading and then takes a minute to go back to sleep. So initial hookup shows 1.62 which drove me crazy for 4 days only to find out my patience was at fault all along! Just didn’t hold the meter connected long enough to get it to settle down!

Thanks for all the replies TBH and next time I ask for help make sure to ask me if it’s plugged in!!!!

[Texas Grown]

It's been fun following. And glad ya found it.

[RMW]

So what was causing the draw and killing the batteries?

[erikm1981]

So what was causing the draw and killing the batteries?

There was never a real parasitic draw. The battery dieing I’m thinking is a starter issue. No codes ever come up on the code reader but he tells me it does take a couple key turns sometimes to get it to turn over. Knowing alt and battery are both good I’m leaning starter issue. I’m not hearing any clicking from the starter but with the symptoms of hard start and dead battery every so often that’s kind of where I’m leaning now. After not finding any draw anywhere else

[RMW]

There was never a real parasitic draw. The battery dieing I’m thinking is a starter issue. No codes ever come up on the code reader but he tells me it does take a couple key turns sometimes to get it to turn over. Knowing alt and battery are both good I’m leaning starter issue. I’m not hearing any clicking from the starter but with the symptoms of hard start and dead battery every so often that’s kind of where I’m leaning now. After not finding any draw anywhere else

Ok gotcha, I’m having the same issue with a 2006 f250 that I swapped a 24valve Cummins into it. It’s got dual batteries so it takes 2-3 weeks for batteries to drain down. If I drove it everyday wouldn’t be a problem I guess.

[Monark]

2012 Silverado half ton

If the truck has the Bose system, pull those fuses. The amp is always suspect.

[Walker]

Test the battery with a hydrometer.

[erikm1981]

Ok gotcha, I’m having the same issue with a 2006 f250 that I swapped a 24valve Cummins into it. It’s got dual batteries so it takes 2-3 weeks for batteries to drain down. If I drove it everyday wouldn’t be a problem I guess.

Did you check for parasitic draw? With my issue not turning up a true small drain somewhere I can only then lead to an actual mechanical issue I guess. It would’ve been nice if the test revealed a more specific area but since there isn’t a small leak somewhere i can only think of a couple other things that would cause a hard start and drain battery