Need Help With Securing a Box Blind

[Deerhunter30]

I'm setting up a box blind at my place to take my boys hunting. The blind is 4' X 7' and will be set on top of 7' tall 4X4s. I had planned to use cable, turnbuckles and augers to secure the blind from blowing over due to high winds. My uncle told me that he did not think I could get the augers in the ground at our place. Which brings me to my question.......how can I secure it? My uncle suggested running a 8' 2X4 in the 4' direction to where it is hanging 2' over each side then drive in 3/8" rebar in the ends of the 2X4. I'm going to look to see if I can secure the box blind to a tree somehow but I am not sure there are any decent sized trees to secure the blind to. I'll welcome any ideas.

[Tuffbroadhead]

I have always just wired them off to the surrounding trees, big or not there roots go pretty deep!!

[Snakelover]

A couple ways I've done it when an auger wouldn't work...

1) Drive T-posts. Two on 45 degree angles opposite each other. Then bend them down flush with the ground so that you can run a cable around both at the same time. Attach your turnbuckle to this cable.

2) Find a mesquite tree. Cut it down, leaving the stump. Get a long eye lag bolt about 9" long and screw it into the stump and attach your turnbuckle to it.

You really only need one good anchor point directly under the stand. You run an cable from the corner of the box down through the top eye of the turnbuckle to the opposite corner. Then you run another cable the same way on the other two corners. Secure them all with cable clamps to tight. Then when you tighten the turnbuckle, it pulls the whole thing straight down and it will hold in very high winds.

[Rattler]

Do snakelover's T Post idea, or we get metal rods and drive them witha sledge on the sabinal rock bottom

[scotty]

We have used the t-post method on stands with a base height up to about 10 ft. We had one tall stand on top of a hill that would go over at the drop of a hat. It was anchored by tieing it to trees and t-posts. After rebuilding it about three times we got a rock bar, a mobile home anchor and two bags of concrete, and a roll of winch cable. Lots of sweat later it was done and it hasn't gone over again.

[Deerhunter30]

Good ideas. I might do the t-post thing. If I bought eight t-posts I could run one cable from each corner.

[Tmag]

Another option is to buy a used scaffold. I use them and they work great.

[Deerhunter30]

I was originally planning on using scaffolding, but that does not fix my problem of the blind blowing over.

[kornsqueezer]

When I hunted Llano we always used augers and t-post . Auger in the center and t-post angled toward the corners on box blind.

[Catn' Around]

t posts is all it takes. the other pic is what happens with the auger type

[Ricky T]

Nice buzzard roost you got there, Cat'n.

[BIG D]

I have used the auger method in the hill country with good results. We also use the t-post method as well. We dont guy wire to the posts, but just drive them close the the legs in each corner and wire them directly to the stand.

[Deerhunter30]

OK....I think I have a plan. I'm going to add some 2X4's to the base to give the 4'X7' blind a 8' X 7' footprint. This should help make the blind harder to blow over. Then I'm going to use 4 t-posts, cable, & turnbuckles to secure the blind similar to what Cat'n Around showed in his post.

[Jaspro]

You could find you 4 of those empty cattle protein tubs and set your legs in them and then fill them with concrete. That would add close to 1000# to the base of the stand.

[Big_gun]

A friend of mine took a 3' square of sheet metal and installed an eyebolt in the middle of it. I don't recall if it had sides or not, but he placed it directly under his stand and ran a cable / turnbuckle up to the base of the box. Then he stacked rocks on top of the sheet metal. A 16' tower blind in South texas that stood for many years.