Tips/Tricks for U-joint Replacement

[BrandonH]

I'm needing to replace the u-joints on my shredder and was looking for tips to make the job easier. The best I can tell there's no way to pull the section between gear boxes, so I'll need to do the work in place. I'm guessing the first step is pulling the retainer clips, but not sure what the best course of action after that is.

[Greenheadless]

Buy a clip tool, thank me later.

A torch might be needed to help persuade things, and a hammer. A sacrificial socket the size of the inside of the cup hole. Bench vise and/or heavy duty C-clamps should prolly be on standby.

Lastly, some good ear protection for family or anyone else that will be around you when the curse words start flying.

[60 Deluxe]

I think that I would be removing gear boxes. Or at least one gear box. A good impact wrench is needed to loosen the blade bolts. It you are at the point of needing u joints, it would probably be a good idea to take it all apart and inspect things.

[BrandonH]

I think that I would be removing gear boxes. Or at least one gear box. A good impact wrench is needed to loosen the blade bolts. It you are at the point of needing u joints, it would probably be a good idea to take it all apart and inspect things.

Removing the gear box has crossed my mind. Here's a zoomed out pic to better see the best boxes.

[Sasqy]

C clamps and deep well sockets, for pressing the caps out !

[60 Deluxe]

Removing the gear box has crossed my mind. Here's a zoomed out pic to better see the best boxes.

I'm going to take a wild guess and say to remove the right one, then pull the mounting bolts out of the center one and slide it to the right. That is sort of a mess. Don't you just love to hate some engineers? Before you do anything, take a look at an exploded diagram of that clutch pack between the center and right gearboxes. That set-up begs the question, why a clutch pack for the right side and not the left. Maybe I'm missing something in the picture.

Start spraying some PB Blaster on those u-joints a day or so before you actually try to get them to move on the shafts. That job may require borrowing a Porta Power kit as there is no good way to use a bearing puller. Edit-if that is a grease zerk fitting on the left u-joint, that may be for aiding in removal. Check for set screws first, then pump some grease in (if that is a zerk) and the hydraulic pressure will aid in removal.

[BrandonH]

I'm going to take a wild guess and say to remove the right one, then pull the mounting bolts out of the center one and slide it to the right. That is sort of a mess. Don't you just love to hate some engineers? Before you do anything, take a look at an exploded diagram of that clutch pack between the center and right gearboxes. That set-up begs the question, why a clutch pack for the right side and not the left. Maybe I'm missing something in the picture.

Start spraying some PB Blaster on those u-joints a day or so before you actually try to get them to move on the shafts. That job may require borrowing a Porta Power kit as there is no good way to use a bearing puller. Edit-if that is a grease zerk fitting on the left u-joint, that may be for aiding in removal. Check for set screws first, then pump some grease in (if that is a zerk) and the hydraulic pressure will aid in removal.

Maybe you can explain what exactly the purpose of that "clutch pack" is. I'm not familiar with those at all and didn't know what it was. All my other shredders are single gear boxes. If you zoom in on this pic I found it appears to be the original design, but still unsure why the two sides are different.

[Easttxbowman]

Remove clips, heat joint with torch, insert socket that fits perfectly, beat it one direction and the beat it back. Do the same for all 4 post. Sand out the rust in the holes where new joint will go and insert the new one in by removing caps. Just make sure the bearings don’t come out by packing alittle extra grease in them. Probably best to press the new ones in with a C-clamp.

[shiner78]

IT'S NOT GONNA BE EASY. I would stand the shredder up and remove the blade carrier and remove the gearbox. So u don't have to work on ur knees. use a vise, Needle nose pliers, hammer, punch, 3/4 socket 1/2 inches drive.

[shiner78]

I looked at the pics again. It looks like the input shaft seals are leaking. While u have the u joint off replace those seals to

[shiner78]

Maybe you can explain what exactly the purpose of that "clutch pack" is. I'm not familiar with those at all and didn't know what it was. All my other shredders are single gear boxes. If you zoom in on this pic I found it appears to be the original design, but still unsure why the two sides are different.

Those black rubber things are dampers (shock absorbers)

[shiner78]

All so loosen ur slip clutch and spin it a few seconds with the tractor. To burn the rust off. Tighten bolts back to spec

[BrandonH]

Those black rubber things are dampers (shock absorbers)

Would you know the reasoning it's like that on just 1 side and not the same on both?

[BrandonH]

Remove clips, heat joint with torch, insert socket that fits perfectly, beat it one direction and the beat it back. Do the same for all 4 post. Sand out the rust in the holes where new joint will go and insert the new one in by removing caps. Just make sure the bearings don’t come out by packing alittle extra grease in them. Probably best to press the new ones in with a C-clamp.

You make it sound so easy...I really do appreciate the step by step directions.

[60 Deluxe]

Maybe you can explain what exactly the purpose of that "clutch pack" is. I'm not familiar with those at all and didn't know what it was. All my other shredders are single gear boxes. If you zoom in on this pic I found it appears to be the original design, but still unsure why the two sides are different.

I think that the other posts have pretty much covered what they do. I looked at 10 foot models and 9 foot models but don't find the parts diagram for your exact machine. Here are some links to information. I did see some maintenance instructions in the 9 foot owners manual beginning at about page 150

https://bushhog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Parts-Manual-3510-3510-O-13510_06-22.pdf

https://bushhog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/50076713-3510-Op-Man_pub-12-21.pdf

https://bushhog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/BHRotaryCutter3200seriesOM-09.pdf