Show off your leather

[Wiley719]

well here it is the girlfriend wanted a purse

[Geezy Rider]

Outstanding.

[JSCOTT]

Here is a belt I made for my brother for his birthday. Let me know what yall see that needs improvement.

[Tubby]

Here is a belt I made for my brother for his birthday. Let me know what yall see that needs improvement.

It looks great but I'm going to critique it like I wold my own work. IMO, there's always room for improvement in leatherwork... I may not see something someone else sees and vice versa.

1. The swivel knife cuts on the acorn cups could be cut in a little deeper and have a more uniform pattern.

2. Pear shading on the leaves are the same depth impression from the stem out to the edge. Try to fade them deep to shallow.

3. Beveling the stems of the leaves. Use a deep impression starting out at the base and fade it to lighter impressions to where it tapers off.

These are VERY MINOR things I can see. I guarantee you they're not noticed when it's being worn, only when inspected up close like this.

Overall, looks great!

[Z7_Matt]

Jscott, I like how you cit the end of the belt. Makes it unique in my opinion. Feel free to make me one anytime!

[Jason Sanders]

Here are a few Case Trapper sheaths I have been making...
A plain belt for a coworker..
A couple plain fixed blade knife sheaths waiting to be stitched and formed...

[Brazos Hunter]

It looks great but I'm going to critique it like I wold my own work. IMO, there's always room for improvement in leatherwork... I may not see something someone else sees and vice versa.

1. The swivel knife cuts on the acorn cups could be cut in a little deeper and have a more uniform pattern.

2. Pear shading on the leaves are the same depth impression from the stem out to the edge. Try to fade them deep to shallow.

3. Beveling the stems of the leaves. Use a deep impression starting out at the base and fade it to lighter impressions to where it tapers off.

These are VERY MINOR things I can see. I guarantee you they're not noticed when it's being worn, only when inspected up close like this.

Overall, looks great!

Text me your address Clint. I'm going to send a few knives for you to make some RT hand cross draws for me. No rush on the job, I just want to get them to you.

[Jason Sanders]

A belt and matching phone case..
A card and ID holder for the wife...
A checkbook cover...
A simple Leatherman sheath..
Tooled arm guard..

[JSCOTT]

Thanks Clint. I totally agree with everything you pointed out.

On the acorn cups I was using a two bladed ceramic swivel knife blade which makes it hard to keep the cuts even, do you have any suggestions on a better way to do it?

I will work on the beveling fading. I didn't think of that when do it, it would definitely give it a more realistic look.

Thank you for the kind words Z7.

[Tubby]

Thanks Clint. I totally agree with everything you pointed out.

On the acorn cups I was using a two bladed ceramic swivel knife blade which makes it hard to keep the cuts even, do you have any suggestions on a better way to do it?

I will work on the beveling fading. I didn't think of that when do it, it would definitely give it a more realistic look.

Thank you for the kind words Z7.

I use a 1/4" ceramic filigree blade. I make all the lines going one way and then make all the crossing lines the other way.



Looking at mine compared to yours, I also need to work on my pear shading and the leaf stem beveling.

[jkg2003]

ohk guys, I am very curious and have tried google with out luck. Can you point me in the right direction on how to get two different colors on leather. I am trying to make a black knife sheath with turquise(sp) in my stamps, does that make since. I am having no luck. Even something simpler, how are you making the shadows in your stamps versus the rest of the leather, talking brown on brown? Thanks in advance

[Tubby]

ohk guys, I am very curious and have tried google with out luck. Can you point me in the right direction on how to get two different colors on leather. I am trying to make a black knife sheath with turquise(sp) in my stamps, does that make since. I am having no luck. Even something simpler, how are you making the shadows in your stamps versus the rest of the leather, talking brown on brown? Thanks in advance

May not be the best way, but this is my way...

Two colors:

There's a couple of different methods. Use Cova Color and paint the inside of the letters turquoise. Allow it to dry then brush on a resist on top of the colored area. This WILL NOT work on lighter colors, ESPECIALLY WHITE! It can be painted again after staining if it does darken up after staining. Be careful not to get the resist on an area you have yet to stain black. Also, make sure you only apply the resist on the "raised" portion of the leather and NOT get it in the cuts of the tooling impressions. (shown in the pics below) Allow the resist to dry. Once dry, apply the black leather stain. The resist does just that, makes the area resist stain. IF the turquoise area darkens after staining everything in black, paint that area turquoise again. The. Apply whichever finishing products you wish after its dried.

This entire guitar strap was dyed without using a resist. Once dried, I painted the green and white in.



This piece was given a coat of Neatsfoot oil all over, allowed to dry then applied a resist on the lettering before staining. The Neatsfoot oil will give it the yellow/gold coloring.



This piece I did not use Neatsfoot oil. Applied resist to the lettering and outside edge before staining.



Antiquing:

This is the darker areas in the tooling impressions or "shadows". I use Eco-Flo Antiquing Gel, it's not the best to use but I is very easy to work with.

Here's a video.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8MV5oXKak4&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]Antique Finishing - YouTube[/ame]

Tandy has lots of instructional videos. I spent a lot if time watching them when I started.

I'm in the process of changing to mainly Fiebings oil dye. Fiebings also makes an Antiquing paste. I've been practicing and experimenting with it.

Hope this helps.

[jkg2003]

May not be the best way, but this is my way...

Two colors:

There's a couple of different methods. Use Cova Color and paint the inside of the letters turquoise. Allow it to dry then brush on a resist on top of the colored area. This WILL NOT work on lighter colors, ESPECIALLY WHITE! It can be painted again after staining if it does darken up after staining. Be careful not to get the resist on an area you have yet to stain black. Also, make sure you only apply the resist on the "raised" portion of the leather and NOT get it in the cuts of the tooling impressions. (shown in the pics below) Allow the resist to dry. Once dry, apply the black leather stain. The resist does just that, makes the area resist stain. IF the turquoise area darkens after staining everything in black, paint that area turquoise again. The. Apply whichever finishing products you wish after its dried.

This entire guitar strap was dyed without using a resist. Once dried, I painted the green and white in.

[ATTACH]364545[/ATTACH]

This piece was given a coat of Neatsfoot oil all over, allowed to dry then applied a resist on the lettering before staining. The Neatsfoot oil will give it the yellow/gold coloring.

[ATTACH]364546[/ATTACH]

This piece I did not use Neatsfoot oil. Applied resist to the lettering and outside edge before staining.

[ATTACH]364547[/ATTACH]

Antiquing:

This is the darker areas in the tooling impressions or "shadows". I use Eco-Flo Antiquing Gel, it's not the best to use but I is very easy to work with.

Here's a video.

Antique Finishing - YouTube

Tandy has lots of instructional videos. I spent a lot if time watching them when I started.

I'm in the process of changing to mainly Fiebings oil dye. Fiebings also makes an Antiquing paste. I've been practicing and experimenting with it.

Hope this helps.

Awesome...Thanks

[jkg2003]

Tubby, I just noticed the Justin Bowerman logo, thats pretty cool...he played at my best friends wedding, good guy for sure.

[jkg2003]

A second question, how do you mold to the shape of what ever you are putting in the sheath???