I have a dumb question about arrow construction

[Pat Miller]

I've been making my own arrows for a couple of years now. Different manufacturers of the same size of carbon shaft---you know----extra long, with knocks on them. The shops will cut them down for you and all you have to do is fletch them and glue in the inserts.
Well, with all the tinkering, tuning, and re-stringing I've had done in the past year with new sights and new arrow rests I've finally been 'convinced' to stick with the set up I have now, which leaves me with about 18 carbon fiber arrows to shoot and NONE OF THEM ARE THE SAME LENGTH! They're close but it is the first thing that was noticed by one of the shops in North Texas!
So here's the predicament: even my SHORTEST ARROW is still about 2" past my arrow rest and I want to have them all cut the same length.(what a novel idea!)
How do I get the inserts out and is it possible! I used Goat Tuff Glue putting them in. Will they heat up and pull out or will I just have to cut past the inserts......!!
Should I go with 2" or 4" Blazer vanes with 125 grain Thunderheads....! (that's my broadhead of choice)

[BIG D]

With Goat Tuff, they may come out with heat but it will be tough. It sounds like you have enough to spare so my opinion is to cut them off just behind the insert and glue in new ones. I would say the 2" Blazer would work fine with your Thunderheads. They fly great with Crimson Talons.

[Solocam00]

it is possible to remove inserts from carbon arrows but you have to be very careful with the amount of heat you apply. the carbon will become soft with too much heat and could damage the while arrow if not cardful, but it can be done. as for fletching I would use the 2" Blazers. best of luck to you.

[Bill]

No dumb questions. If there were, I'd get a prize.

For 3d and target arrows, cut them short to reduce weight (and increase speed slightly) if it does not make the spine too stiff. All things being equal, a shorter arrow will have a stiffer spine than a longer arrow.

For hunting, it gives me the creeps to have a razor-sharp broadhead anywhere above my hand and wrist, ***** happens and I'm afraid of it falling off somehow and going through my hand. I cut all mine 1" longer than the front of the riser to keep 'em out in front of my hand.

To answer your question, you may find that with the arrows withing a inch or so of each other, they may fly the same for you. You can cut them off with an arrow saw behind the inserts if you need to.

2" Blazers will work. They control my 500 grain CT Rhinos fine out to 50 yards with broadheads (pre-elk tuning and practice).

[bowhuntntxn]

leave the field tips in the arrows, and apply the heat to the tip. it should transfer into the insert, and not damage the shaft too much. personally, i would cut them first, and then pull inserts out of the pieces using a clamp or something like that. and like everyone said, 2 inch blazers will be fine.

[bowmansdad]

If you're going to refletch, couldn't you cut them on the nock end? I
do not build my own arrows so this may be a dumb answer.

[Wildman]

Bowmansdad bet me too it. Cut off your nock end. 2" blazers work fine with 125 Thunderheads (my choice of BH)

[Cotton]

If you're going to refletch, couldn't you cut them on the nock end? I
do not build my own arrows so this may be a dumb answer.

That's what I'd do.

[Texastaxi]

Dang, WM ... whodathunk you was a genius?

That's so simple that it irritated me when I read it. LOL
Sometimes you just gotta think outside the box a little!

[BIG D]

OMG, now I feel stupid (which I am used to). Good answer.

[Xspot]

When building your own arrows, do not use a super glue!!! use hot melt. That way you can tune you broad heads and make sure they spin true. With a super glue you can not do that....

[Chris]

Thier supposed to spin true!