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    reloading?? Annealing cases

    i have heard a few people say i should consider annealing my cases for my mag rifle cartridges what do yall have to say about it
    Matt

    #2
    Supposedly it gives you more case life...I used to buy Lapua brass for a 6BR and you could see the annealing on the brass from the factory. Depends on the caliber...if it is expensive brass that is hard to come by and you need to get a few more loadings out of it then it is worth it. If it is for a mainstream cartridge where brass is easily accesible I think it isnt worth the time.

    After 6-10 loadings on brass I used to chunk it anyways and start with fresh brass. Getting an extra loading or two out of brass was secondary to safety.

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      #3
      annealing should have nothing to do with "mag rifle cartridges" ... I anneal my brass ands I shoot tons of small caliber wildcats

      I've shot the same brass 40+ times after annealing and the brass is still safe to use, and accurate

      IMO, brass quality is a huge factor in rifle accuracy ( i.e. Lapua v. Rem)

      read this article which will help provide useful info. on annealing

      http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Cajun Blake View Post
        annealing should have nothing to do with "mag rifle cartridges" ... I anneal my brass ands I shoot tons of small caliber wildcats

        I've shot the same brass 40+ times after annealing and the brass is still safe to use, and accurate

        IMO, brass quality is a huge factor in rifle accuracy ( i.e. Lapua v. Rem)

        read this article which will help provide useful info. on annealing

        http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
        the reason I think they said that is for the mag is because mags are known to be harder on the the shoulder and neck and from what i have read you want to aneal every 3-5 times you reload it. Basicaly I am looking for all the info I can come up with because i am useing A square brass for a 7mmstw or that is what the plan is
        Matt

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          #5
          Annealing really helps to prevent case mouth splits from work hardening due to expanding/resizing/crimping over and over. Good idea to get into it if you shoot a lot and want to get max case life, even with handgun rounds. But it can be labor intensive, and you may choose to work those few hours at your job to pay buy new cases more frequently than to spend the time annealing brass. It's really worth it if you're into B.R., as every little minute detail is an obsession and gasp...a JOY for those who get into that discipline, lol...it's a disease. Stay away from Benchrest if you want a life (and a spouse)!

          Comment


            #6
            ok how do yall anneal??

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by savagehunter83 View Post
              ok how do yall anneal??
              It can be unsafe if done improperly, so I'm going to give you a link to a good article on the annealing do's and don'ts...I would reiterate that you should never try to anneal any part of the case but the mouth for safety reasons. Take a minute to read this...or get Gennels book on reloading which also contains this info. Good Luck...I found out I'm an outdated "old timer" with the method I had been using, lol...so I'm leaving the "splainin' to the article so's not to steer you wrong

              The Link : http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm
              Last edited by Idaho TradBow; 07-07-2010, 03:46 PM.

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                #8
                I've done it once for my 7STW. It's a pain. I decided afterward that whenever I started getting neck cracks, I would just buy another 100 unprimed cases. Brass is not that expensive and I have found that I can get at least 5 loadings before the necks get too hard. I only neck size my brass BTW.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by scotty View Post
                  I've done it once for my 7STW. It's a pain. I decided afterward that whenever I started getting neck cracks, I would just buy another 100 unprimed cases. Brass is not that expensive and I have found that I can get at least 5 loadings before the necks get too hard. I only neck size my brass BTW.
                  I have found what you're saying to make the most sense with but one exception...and that's the B.R. /wildcatting cartridges that you can't buy stock and have to be made by steps such as necking up/down and then fireforming...which is a process when once completed you will all but kill to keep those cases in service as long as possible, and when I like to anneal. Otherwise I'm with you 100%...just buy some new cases after about 3 to 5 reloads. It's just that those first shots fired won't be to spec with your neck sized old brass that fits your chamber so well. After their first firing though you're back where you were so long as you are consisten with case brand and all that...

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                    #10
                    I buy 8mm Rem Mag cases and neck them down to 7MM STW. That's not that big of a jump. I then neck turn them to get them consistently concentric. I turn them once after the first sizing, and again after the first firing just to touch them up. It rarely takes any brass off with the second turning. I forget what my clearance is after turning them, but my Sinclair neck turner tool never gets re-adjusted. My rifle shoots those a lot better than the A-Square 7MM STW brass that I tried.
                    Last edited by scotty; 07-07-2010, 04:25 PM.

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                      #11
                      There is an article in the latest Speer reloading manual (49th edition) that gives a how to on annealing. If you try to extend case life by annealing be sure to carefully check for case head seperation. I don't feel that annealing is all that time consuming or bothersome. It is just a part of the process and can you money by extending case life by 3 to 4 times.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by scotty View Post
                        I buy 8mm Rem Mag cases and neck them down to 7MM STW. That's not that big of a jump. I then neck turn them to get them consistently concentric. I turn them once after the first sizing, and again after the first firing just to touch them up. It rarely takes any brass off with the second turning. I forget what my clearance is after turning them, but my Sinclair neck turner tool never gets re-adjusted. My rifle shoots those a lot better than the A-Square 7MM STW brass that I tried.
                        Fess up, Scott, that's Corey's gun now that you've decided you like shooting his 7mm-08 more, isn't it........you old codger.....

                        I've never seen the need to anneal, like Scott says for reasonably priced brass I'd pitch 'em after about the 3rd trim, or when they start to show incipient case head separation. Idaho and CB make a good point about specialized brass, or those who shoot high volumes. The problem with annealing is that you have to get them to the right temperature before dunking them, which is why they sell Tempilaq and some of the specialized 2-torch head setups for annealing. I might change my mind if brass starts getting any more expensive, though.

                        Stu

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Cottonfish View Post
                          Fess up, Scott, that's Corey's gun now that you've decided you like shooting his 7mm-08 more, isn't it........you old codger.....



                          Stu

                          I ain't that old yet! And remember, Swenson, you're still older! That 7mm-08 sure is sweet, though!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ok from some of the reading that I have been directed to it seems that there is a small matter of accuracy potential that you can gain from annealing, due to the strength of the grip the case has on the bullet and by annealing you will be getting the cases a lot closer to the same degree of strength in the release

                            Comment


                              #15
                              IMO I would just buy the brass already annealed if you can find it. It's not worth the hassle for the little gain you get from the process. How much do you anticipate shooting the gun, and be realistic?

                              You can buy bushing style resizing dies and accomplish the same thing in regards to neck tension; or even a factory crimp die for that matter.

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