RK Toolbox support on Chevy pickup

[Bill M]

I had my Chevy pickup's bed repaired recently where it had cracked due to the weight of my RK toolbox. I'm not wanting to deal with this again and need to get my toolbox back on the truck. I know Texas Cattleman had the problem with this as well.

Anyone have a good suggestion for supporting this box on a '05 Chevy Silverado 2500? I'd prefer not to put a headache rack on but if need be I'm looking at the WG10L.

TIA

[Bill M]

TTT b4 logging out.

[RJK70]

Replace it with a Ford would do the trick

Only kidding, best of luck with getting this solved.

[Bill M]

Replace it with a Ford would do the trick

Only kidding, best of luck with getting this solved.

Already done my time with Ford years ago. Thanks for sending up again.

[Bill M]

Nobody else drives a pickup here?

[SAC]

I dont think it is because of the weight. Only use 2 bolts to secure it. It allows for any torque or twist in the bed. 4 bolts is does not allow. I have always used 2 bolts , just cause it was easier, and never had a problem and I stash alot of crap in mine.

[cosmiccowboy]

I am told that it's not the weight of the box that cracks the bed, it's the way the box is mounted. I had my box mounted with two bolts on each side and cracked the bed. I was told that this is wrong...The bed is designed to flex when the truck drives over uneven terrain and bolting the box down like that keeps it from flexing and causes it to crack. I was told to just use one bolt on each side and not to crank it down tight. I did that with the same box on the repaired bed and so far so good...no problems.

[Gerald S]

What they said! Who needs instructions for installing a tool box, right? But, if you read them, most say to only use one bolt.

[Dale Moser]

I am told that it's not the weight of the box that cracks the bed, it's the way the box is mounted. I had my box mounted with two bolts on each side and cracked the bed. I was told that this is wrong...The bed is designed to flex when the truck drives over uneven terrain and bolting the box down like that keeps it from flexing and causes it to crack. I was told to just use one bolt on each side and not to crank it down tight. I did that with the same box on the repaired bed and so far so good...no problems.

This is correct. Also use the supplied weather stripping between the box and the bed....I double mine because I drive my truck like I'm at Baja. Sometimes the steel boxes will crack the bed anyway. The problem is that (at least at RKI) they have to build boxes a certain way to appease the oil field companies, farmers, ranchers, etc....and it makes them so stiff that in some cases they won't allow the bed to flex. Fords are actually more prone than most to break, the mid 90s body style fords being the worst.

I know a guy who works for RKI.

[Gerald S]

Yep. Once ford started putting those plastic bed caps on their f250's, the cracking stopped due to all the extra flex they provided.

[Bill M]

Thanks for the input fellas. I'm going to double check but I believe I've always used the supplied bolts and it being one per side. Could be mistaken though.

[hntndawg]

I have seen the trouble from weight, not just mounting...but I carried a FULL toolbox all the time. You could build a frame support that goes down an attaches to the bed of the truck instead of the rails, thats what I was going to try before I sold the truck. For what it is worth, I think those racks are junk, had a couple on some work trucks. If you are going the headache rack route, invest in a Ranch Hand type of rack. Just my .0005 cents worth.

[Bill M]

Thanks for that hntndawg. I have been using only one bolt each side with the included mounting bracket under the rail.

[Speedgoat]

The problem begins with a $700 toolbox that you just fill up, bang on, and abuse. Buy a cheap toolbox that is smaller and dont worry about it anymore.

[Speedgoat]

I jest, I have only owned the aluminum ones, because my trucks are too pretty for rusted metal boxes.