Fletching help...

[KHo]

I am having the hardest time getting my Blazer Vanes to stick consistently (i.e. they will last a few shots and then seperate from the shaft). Is my "process" wrong or do I need to try another adhesive?

- strip damaged wrap or fletching with razor blade
- clean shaft with Goo Gone or Acetone
- wash shaft with warm soap and water to remove any Goo Gone / Acetone residue
- wipe dry followed by a few minutes of air drying
- if I feel like re-wrapping, I do it here
- set up my EZ Fletch
- I run a bead of Bohning Fletch Tite the entire length of the fletching
- lock up the EZ Fletch for 5 or so minutes
- after removing the arrow, I apply a small dab of adhesive to the very front and rear of the vane
- let the arrow sit overnight before using

HELP! Thanks in advance.

[TX_Kevin]

I had the same problem so I switched to Super Glue gel. It worked and I've not had the problem since.

[bowhntrmatt]

Dang I dunno. I use the fletch tite platinum, and I would probly have a hard time TRYING to pull the Blazers offf my arrows. Only difference is I skip the acetone step. Wash with soapy water, let air dry, and glue. I have a different fletching jig but that shouldn't make a difference.

Oh yeah, I also lightly sand the shaft to scuff it before washing.

[Loneaggie]

you need fletch tite platinum is my experience. could be the wraps though... might want to LIGHTLY swab them with alcohol.... test on an old one and see if it smears the color first though.

[Xspot]

Need more than 5 min on the fletch tite...... More like 10 min or so.....
also
Fletch tite may have a problem sticking to the wrap.

[Lost Buckaroo]

I use the platinum on my fmj's and it works great. I fletched some arrows for a friend on carbon shafts and some of them fell off and i had to re-glue them

[EdO]

I tried the fletch tite platinum and had bad luck. Went back to super glue. I don't think the fletch tite is the problem, I think maybe it has more to do with the type of fletching clamp, or the amount of the adhesive used. I've still got almost a full tube, so need to do some experimenting.

[KHo]

I had the same problem so I switched to Super Glue gel. It worked and I've not had the problem since.

I have heard this suggested once before...may have to go that route.

Need more than 5 min on the fletch tite...... More like 10 min or so.....
also
Fletch tite may have a problem sticking to the wrap.

Good advise. I didn't think the set-up would be that long. As for the wraps, I have ALWAYS had an issue with the wrip/Fletch Tite/Blazer combination; therefore, I usually don't re-wrap.

[JBS]

Goo Gone has lemon oil extract don’t use it. Normal alcohol has water in it, don’t use it. Clean shaft with acetone, denatured alcohol, or lacquer thinner. Wipe wrap well. Blazers have a “treated base” for super glue type cements, it can cause problems with other glues. Wipe the crap out of the blazer base with one of the chemicals above and it should solve the problem when using one of the non superglue adhesives.

[Jason Slocum]

I think it helps to add some extra glue to the ends of the fletching after I have removed the arrow from the jig. I add a drop of glue on both ends of the vane and haven't had any problems. Jason Slocum

[KHo]

Goo Gone has lemon oil extract don’t use it. Normal alcohol has water in it, don’t use it. Clean shaft with acetone, denatured alcohol, or lacquer thinner. Wipe wrap well. Blazers have a “treated base” for super glue type cements, it can cause problems with other glues. Wipe the crap out of the blazer base with one of the chemicals above and it should solve the problem when using one of the non superglue adhesives.

Good info JBS. Since I have used Goo Gone, will the acetone, denatured alcohol, or lacquer thinner remove the residue? And if I am reading your recommendation right, DO NOT USE superglue, right? Stick with a Fletch Tite product or vane specific adhesive? Please clarify.

I think it helps to add some extra glue to the ends of the fletching after I have removed the arrow from the jig. I add a drop of glue on both ends of the vane and haven't had any problems. Jason Slocum

This is my practice as well, but still doesn't alleviate what I am experiencing. Thanks for the input though.

[planofirefghter]

Try some Goat Tuff glue

[JBS]

I would stop using goo gone. I only use acetone, denatured alcohol, or lacquer thinner to clean the shaft and vane base. I only use denatured alcohol to clean the wrap as the other two chemicals will “eat” the wrap. If you are going to use Blazers without cleaning the base then use a superglue type cement, like goat tuff or one of those. If you go ahead and clean the base then you can use any type cement. Using this method I have never had a vane come off, Blazer, Dura Vane, Fletch-Flex, and a host of others.

If not using a wrap you can also scuff the shaft in the vane area with 0000 steelwool.

[KHo]

Thanks for the clarification JBS. Info is much appreciated.

[3children]

Many people have posted that the Blazer does not stick. For a kick just try the Vane Tec they are identicl in shape and size, weight and look sharper with their logo on the side. Those that have tried never go back to Blazer. My prep goes this way: scrub the shaft with a soft pot pad, wash with warm water, let air dry and fletch. In the jig for 10 seconds and I can turn and fletch the next. I will never use the Bohning glue. My shop is not far from the factory but when I call and they tell me that it is not there problem, then I switch. I use a play with different vanes and the two best is the Vane Tec and the Fusion and the VT is half the price of blazers. Let me know if you want some.