People asking for tips I have one

[txdukklr]

DON'T FRICKEN CHANGE SOMETHING FOUR DAYS BEFORE A HUNT

Gosh dang it, this year twice my peep has rolled at the moment of truth and I've been able to eek out a kill shot but it really peved me off. So when i bought the z7 I was talking to the guy and I finally decided i'm gonna go with a string loop.

Well I loved it, I found my accuracy went up and the peep was perfect every time. So i took my admiral to another shop and said . . . as a quote.

"do you think you can add a string loop without changing the poi?"

unnamed bow guy "why would it change anything?"

Ten minutes later I'm shooting arrows six inches higher and three inches right then i was before. Worse I'm getting no consistency with the loop on this bow.

Now I have to re-sight my single pin back into the elevation change. I figured move the whole sight house down would address it but I've got 20 back on but 25-35-45 get progressively higher.

I have three anchor points a kisser, my nose, obviously the sight but my back knuckle is not the one I'm mentally checking it's the kisser, sight, then nose. Obviously that back anchor was more important I just must not have thought about it.

So now I have to choose, sight the z7 for all my shooting distances and take a bow that I just got out to hunt or re-sight the admiral. I will say that the z7 shoots way better and I am way more consistent with this bow at 20 which is the only pin i've set.

[The Manager]

Man sorry to hear about your bad luck, especially when you are ready to go on a hunt.

[stryker93]

Sounds like your nock point is not in the same place.

[DWG]

Can you see any wear on the serving where you were nocking the arrow before the loop was installed? If so move the loop to that point.

If not I would shoot it thru paper cause chances are it needs to be tuned since the nocking point has been moved.

[easeup]

string loop

that is my experience also. I agree. never change anything anytime at all before a hunt.

I have found that changing a string loop will always change the point of contact. Because of past experience I will change strings and loops in the off season to allow plenty of time to get it perfect again.
On a side note, I have found that only the sight needs adjusted for the first pin. As the remaining pins are all OK once the sight bracket is moved to restore the closest pin.

also, I was thinking that the loop could be too long to make such a change on the L to R.

good post for those unsuspecting

[az2tx]

DON'T FRICKEN CHANGE SOMETHING FOUR DAYS BEFORE A HUNT

Gosh dang it, this year twice my peep has rolled at the moment of truth and I've been able to eek out a kill shot but it really peved me off. So when i bought the z7 I was talking to the guy and I finally decided i'm gonna go with a string loop.

Well I loved it, I found my accuracy went up and the peep was perfect every time. So i took my admiral to another shop and said . . . as a quote.

"do you think you can add a string loop without changing the poi?"

unnamed bow guy "why would it change anything?"

Ten minutes later I'm shooting arrows six inches higheryour nock point is now lower, rotate the loop around your string a couple of turns and three inches right then i was beforeyou now have eliminated torque. Worse I'm getting no consistency with the loop on this bow. You just increased your draw length 1/2 inch, which will cause you to change everything on your anchor point

Now I have to re-sight my single pin back into the elevation change. I figured move the whole sight house down would address it but I've got 20 back on but 25-35-45 get progressively higher.

I have three anchor points a kisser, my nose, obviously the sight but my back knuckle is not the one I'm mentally checking it's the kisser, sight, then nose. Obviously that back anchor was more important I just must not have thought about it.

So now I have to choose, sight the z7 for all my shooting distances and take a bow that I just got out to hunt or re-sight the admiral. I will say that the z7 shoots way better and I am way more consistent with this bow at 20 which is the only pin i've set.

Your other choice is to go back to shooting off the string on you Admiral. FYI if you are going to shoot a loop you need to buy your bow with 1/2 inch shorted draw length

[keep]

FYI if you are going to shoot a loop you need to buy your bow with 1/2 inch shorted draw length

.....provided you want the same anchor point.

[az2tx]

.....provided you want the same anchor point.

True, but if you have the proper draw length(which a lot of people don't, many are to long) you will want the same anchor point.

[keep]

True, but if you have the proper draw length(which a lot of people don't, many are to long) you will want the same anchor point.

that's what I said.

[SanAngeloBowman]

If Loop is to big when they tied it it will place your release out of line with the nock. If this is the case the loop needs to be made smaller and lined up correctly. Just saying cause I had it happen to me before, and yes it was done at a shop.

[tookeymonster]

man i was going to change my cam on my bow to a longer draw today. im leaving tomorrow to go to the lease. now you got me thinking.....

[Ron]

I shoot almost daily and I can tell you that the slightest change can make a huge difference in accuracy. I had new a new loop put on and it changed everything, so had to go all the way back to paper tuning and start over till it was right. Good luck!

[txdukklr]

I've shot the mathews in, I shoot it exponentially better then the admiral. I'm spraying arrows everywhere with the admiral now, I'm thinking its more then my shooting. I'm wondering if the arrow is level because it looks like they are wobbling pretty bad in flight.

Agree with the 1/2 inch on the draw, if you want the same anchor point.

[Troup]

put an arrow on it and look at it side ways arrow should be 90 degrees off the string or just a little high, it sounds like you are having contact when your arrow is leaving, you can spray foot powder on your rest and shoot it to see where your contact is.

[xman59]

for those who are not obsessed with speed, it is possible to put a lop on and not move the nock point its all in how you want it done, i always use two brass nocks 1 above and 1 below, because i have found over time one nock will almost always eventually move, i then tie the d loop on the outside of the nocks, if you need to replace the loop, everything is as it was before, if your on a hunt and the loop breaks of the knot gives up, you can shoot from the string knowing your arrow nock point has not moved, however more often than not your poi will change because of shooting from the string and not a loop,,,,,but it is easy enough to make shooting corrections if, this happens