Need Tuning advise please......Long Read

[sitn_on_20s]

I have been trying to tune my bow myself with my brother this afternoon. I started out walk back tuning. We could not figure this out. When I would shoot from 10 yards using 20 yrd pin I would be above bullseye. When I would walk back to 20 yards and shoot using the 20 yard pin I would hit higher than at 10 yards. This, to the both of us, didn't seem right. We think, correct me if we're wrong, it should be shooting lower than the 10yrd shot. Now when i went back to 30 it did drop lower than the 10 and 20 yrd shots.

This got us questioning rest setup and nock point. We first checked nock point with his bow square and set it were it was square with the rest. We the checked the timing of the trophy taker shakey hunter rest, and from the point that it starts to lift the arrow, to the point it hits full draw the arrow moves 4 to 4 1/2 inches(we didn't measure exact). After checking TT website it says that the bar should raise the last 1 to 2 1/2 iches of draw. So i know that has to be changed. It was SUPPOSED to be set by the local shop, and apparently wasn't done correctly.

What i would like to get is some info for step-by-step setup/tuning. As in i just bolted the sights and rest on, now what should i do in what order should i do them. I don't want a big ordeal about this way verus that on walkback vs. paper b/c really i'm gonna do'em both anyways.

And I'm also not taking it to a proshop because i really want to learn how to set up and tune this it properly. Please share experiences and advise, I need all the positive info available.
Thanks,
Heath

[stang_j_99]

You should have bought a kaz-away rest.....lmao!

[Justin]

If you are going to do it both ways, I would paper tune it first. That should get you in the ball park fairly quickly and then the walk back tuning will fine tune everything where it should be.

[shotgunsmitty]

All measurements aside for a moment, no arrow will fly straight due to gravity. At ten yards, it's most likely that your arrow is on an upward trajectory, and at 20 yards it's on its way back down. This would be especially true with some of the faster bows on the market today. You'll hear talk of "flat shooters", but until we find a way to get arrows to not be affected by gravity, that won't happen for a while.
Just my opinion, and it might be wrong.

Paper tune at ten feet and see where it's tearing.

And let us know!

[bowhuntntxn]

IN a step by step process, you should always start with the rest, and nocking point. shoot a bre shaft until you get a bullet hole, and then you can shoot a fletched arrow to make sure you have vane clearance. Once you have adjusted you rest/NP, then you can mount a sight, and start setting A pin for X yardage. Start really close to set your horizontal alignment, and since most sights are gang adjusted now, when you get the top pin set, the rest should be very close to set(for L/R ONLY). Then move to 20 and start adjusting your sight THE SAME WAY!! Move the entire sight up and down, not just the pin. When you are comfortable with the top pins, the move back and sight in another pin. This time, DO NOT MOVE THE SIGHT, JUST THE PIN!! After you have set all the pins at distances you are comfortable with, then you can set up for walk back tuning if you choose to. Lotsa folks lose their set up trying the walk back for the first time, and have to start over from scratch, so be very careful, and try to make marks of current set up before adjusting anything. That way you can put it back if you need to. I know this is a long read, and I hope it helps. Good Luck.

[Goldeneagle]

Don't let the trajectory make you think something is wrong. My 20yd pin shoots high at 15 but is back dead on at 10. For a 3yd shot I shoot for 53yds and it is dead on. Shoot the paper then do a walk back.

[bboswell]

What eagle said.

Shoot paper first then do the walkback.

While doing the walkback pay NO ATTENTION to how high or low the shots hit. During a walkback you only need pay attention to the lefts and rights.

[Coon]

You say you aren't taking it to a pro-shop because you want to learn to do it yourself? There's no better place to learn to do it than at a pro-shop. If they won't teach you, you need to find another shop!
Dave

[sitn_on_20s]

You say you aren't taking it to a pro-shop because you want to learn to do it yourself? There's no better place to learn to do it than at a pro-shop. If they won't teach you, you need to find another shop!
Dave

I agree whole-heartedly, Txcoon. The problem for now is there is only one shop here locally the next one would be a good drive from here. We do have a Gander being built and i have heard some good things about the bow tech thats coming, hopefully he'll be a little more open to his knowledge. Not only that, but I've always been one to "do-it-yourself" and your absolutely right about the pro shop being the best place to learn, but why should i go to the proshop here to learn when they put my rest on and didn't time it correctly. Now I'm not saying i will never do business with them again, but i want to know when i do have them do anything to my bow i can check over there work.

Lotsa folks lose their set up trying the walk back for the first time, and have to start over from scratch, so be very careful, and try to make marks of current set up before adjusting anything. That way you can put it back if you need to. I know this is a long read, and I hope it helps. Good Luck.

This is exactly what i did i believe!! I had obvious rest/fletching contact, so i checked nock point and just adjust it lower with out doing any other tuning and then tried to walkback tune it. So i think i did too many changes at one time without taking the proper steps in between to tune/re-tune everything

[bboswell]

I had obvious rest/fletching contact, so i checked nock point and just adjust it lower with out doing any other tuning and then tried to walkback tune it. So i think i did too many changes at one time without taking the proper steps in between to tune/re-tune everything

Fletch/rest contact is not always a function of nock height....but if nock height is the culprit then you would want to raise the nock.

Whether you are tuning a bow or a car or the space shuttle make 1 adjustment at a time and ALWAYS mark and take notes so that you can return to your starting point if need be.

[Bill M]

Heath is the there a possibility you could catch up with me in the morning? Let me know, I'll be in town from about 9:30 to 11:30.

[sitn_on_20s]

Hey Bill I sent you a PM

[Bowwiz]

Hook him up Bill!-Bill does know alittle about compounds,tuning,and shooting!

[Bill]

http://eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp

Download the tuning guide. If you're trying to learn to tune yourself, there's no better reference document in my humble opinion.

[Olphart]

Bill and Heath, I've sent you PMs since I need to at least watch this if not get your help too.
Thanks!