First Recurve - Arrow Question

[agtex42]

Well....I've been looking at this bow since Christmas morning and vowed that I wouldn't shoot it until I had the proper rest, arrows, tab, etc but I just couldn't help myself. Please excuse the leather workglove as its all I could find to protect my fingers. I had a ton of fun this afternoon, stayed around 8 yards or so and focused on a shot routine/anchor point (index finger to corner of mouth and thumb to back of eye socket). Kept everything on the target and despite the poor arrow flight I was managing to get decent groups as the day progressed, any pointers or critiques would be greatly appreciated.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K444boJE0G8"]YouTube - Fist day with Samick Sage[/ame]

[Samiel2d]

looks like you're doing good. not entirely sure about the thumb up by your eye, but if it works for you then go for it. as far as arrow spine goes, 500s would be the best spine, 400s will be on the stiff side and you may need to add alot of point weight to get proper flight. ive got a vintage pearson that is 45# @ 28" and ive shot everything from 500 spined arrrows (gt 35/55s) to beeman ics hunters in 340 that i had from when i shot wheel bow. play with your point weight. 3 rivers has test kits that are cheap, you can add weight behind the insert.

[Deb]

I'm not sure about the thumb up by your eye, but whatever floats your boat. I humbly suggest that you work on follow through.

[agtex42]

I'm not sure about the thumb up by your eye, but whatever floats your boat. I humbly suggest that you work on follow through.

As in maintaining the sight picture after the shot? I did notice during the playback that I have the tendency to drop my bow arm slightly after the shot. Thanks for the feedback.

[Deb]

As in maintaining the sight picture after the shot? I did notice during the playback that I have the tendency to drop my bow arm slightly after the shot. Thanks for the feedback.

Don't drop the bow arm and keep the other hand firmly aginst your face. Don't move until the arrow is in the target. Come to anchor and freeze until the arrow is in the target. I can't really tell with that temporary glove, but it looks like you may have to much finger in the string. Also, check to see if you are "hooking" your fingers. They shouldn't curl or hook, just bend.

[Ol Man]

My turn... Your follow through seems to be fine, draw hand could use some work as well as your elbow seems to be a little low for me at least! Also I know several archers who use leather work gloves and they shoot great! You could always just cut the thumb and baby finger off and it would looks great too!

In order to get your elbow inline I would put the bow up align it to the target then draw back slowly to your anchor. This helps in getting your whole body aligned as well as your elbow in the correct position. A swing draw which is what you are showing is very hard to master - one day you will shoot great and others you may find it very frustrating. Consistency is the key with trad archery! Nice concentration and target lock with your eyes!

[Night Wing]

Nice video. Other than your form, the only thing I noticed was how loud the bow was. Of course, there were no string silencers on it. If you ever decide to go with a heavy arrow, you might not need string silencers on it. I have no string silencers on my 42# recurve, but I'm shooting a very heavy 637 grain aluminum arrow with it. Doug made the bowstring for it and I'm going to get Doug to make another bowstring for my 37# bow and I'm hoping the bow will be as quiet as my other bow where I won't have to put string silencers on it either since it shoots a 550 grain aluminum arrow.

[Ole Shep]

Get some feathers. You can ask the guru's but I think they all shoot them.

[agtex42]

Get some feathers. You can ask the guru's but I think they all shoot them.

I come home from work every day expecting them to be on the porch, I just couldn't wait to start shooting.

[Deb]

All but one. Feathers are a must.

[Wayne Meuir]

My advice would be to slow down a little. Try to be VERY sure you get to full draw before you release. If you rush it can lead to some very bad habits that are very hard to break (ask me how I know).
Some folks shoot with a very fluid motion without stopping hardly at all at full draw.
Others (myself included) pause at full draw and get very still before releasing.
Either method will work if you are sure you are getting to full draw and anchoring at the same place EVERY time. That is a lot harder to do if you never stop moving.
The bow hand must be very solid in either case. Sometimes you can get away with a little slop in the release if your bow hand is firm and solid. If the bow hand is moving, all bets are off as to where the arrow will hit.

Wayne

[agtex42]

Thanks for all the responses guys, I'm really starting to enjoy shooting this bow! My arrows came in earlier this week along with a few other goodies (rest, damascus glove, beaver puffs, sexy new TBH shirt, etc). The arrows are Easton ST Excels in .500 spine cut to 30.5 inches from nock valley to insert fletched with 4" feathers. I started out with 125 grain tips, but they were showing stiff so I swapped them for 145'ers and now I'm grouping my bareshaft arrow right with my fletched ones out to 15 yards.

I also picked up a copy of Byron Ferguson's book and although it seems to be directed more toward longbow shooters I've taken the form recommendations he outlined and applied to it how I shoot and it's really done wonders for my consistency and accuracy. For some reason my wife refuses to come outside and video me shooting when it's 27 degrees and sleeting so indoor pictures will have to suffice.





If you guys see anything that looks out of place or would recommend I scrap this style of shooting and go in another direction feel free to comment, but this seems to be working for me for the time being. Either way thanks again for all the help, I'm really hoping to working myself up to a hunting weight before this coming season but we'll cross that bridge when the time comes.

[Samiel2d]

only thing i see wrong is your back tension isnt set (your shoulder slumps in the last picture). but that is something that will come with time and practice, or it did for me at least, but then again the only local help i have is this website, which has been a lifesaver and a money saver full of information. im not sure what you consider "hunting weight" but those 40# limbs will allow you to hunt in most states.

[shortstroke 91]

If you draw a line straight back down the arrow through your wrist you'll notice your elbow is to the right of that line. I'd try to work on getting that right elbow back farther (so it's more in line with the arrow shaft), it'll help with your release and make using your back muscles to draw and hold easier. Not to mention increasing your draw and # a little. Most of us were taught to anchor at the corner of our mouth but that's not always a good spot. I was a prime example of this until I went to a Rod Jenkins seminar, he had me anchor farther back on my face and I get much better extension and follow through. It's also a lot more comfortable.

[Deb]

Looks pretty good to me. Jmo, but I think you're elbow is just a tad high.