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Tikka T3 - Accuracy and Shooting Techniques

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    #16
    Google natural point of aim.

    You have one good group so you proved it wasn't the rifle. Most likely a heating issue, but recheck all you fasteners to make sure none backed off.

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      #17
      Heat or shooter era but most likely heat from the looks of the first group. Tikka's are great shooting rifles right out of the box.

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        #18
        Originally posted by 4barchery View Post
        After seeing the first grouping, I think its the barrel getting too hot. I would take your time between shots and definitely between groups. In my Kimber Montana in a 7mm-08 I actually wait anywhere from 3-5 minutes between shots. I have been known to sit in my truck with the a/c running in the summer to help it cool down.
        I have also heard that the factory rings are not that solid, but it has only caused problems on the bigger recoiling calibers like th 7mm RM and the 300 WM
        This. When shooting serious for groups or load development in a light barrel rifle I set a timer to shoot 1 shot every 5 minutes in the summer. Cooler temps can reduces time.

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          #19
          Most likely heat if you confirm everything is tight.

          I have a Kimber with a heavy barrel that is extremely heat sensitive and EVEN more sensitive to specific loads. When I first went out with it to the range I got frustrated based on same stuff you experienced. BUT then someone asked me a question "How many times do you generally shoot at the same deer after the first shot?" Well, at that point I realized that only thing that matters is that single shot next time you shoot when barrel is fouled (a shot or two through it) and in its natural cool state.

          next time you go to range bring a few more guns with you to shoot while you wait on the rifle to cool. Nothing harder than just sitting there waiting on a barrel to cool while you are on the ranges clock

          You my friend have a tack driver AND you were lucky enough to find the ammo that rifle really likes right out of the chute (i cant tell you how much money I spent on ammo in an attempt to get in that neighborhood you achieved).

          I assume you didnt do any cleaning to the gun after the first three shots?

          Congrats.

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            #20
            It's junk, all Tikka's are junk so make sure to pm me all y'all's prices for your non shooting tikka rifles


            By the way those are some great looking Tikka's and I am going to have to look into those stocks. I have to agree with the heat issue as my tikka .308 and my sako A7 .243 do the same thing after the first group. I also shoot federal fusion out of both of my rifles.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Daniel75 View Post
              [ATTACH]461989[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH]461991[/ATTACH]
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              [ATTACH]461993[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH]461994[/ATTACH]
              [ATTACH]461995[/ATTACH]
              A Bell and Carlson Medalist and a Tikka go together like peanut butter and jelly
              Right Click and Save. Still undecided on which color B&C

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                #22
                For a rest, I used either a harris bipod with squeeze bag rear or sandbags front and squeeze bag rear. My plan is to take it out again on a good condition day and wait some time between shots to see how she shoots. I did not think heat would cause such a fluctuation.

                I did notice that the barrel is not fully free floated. There is a rib 4-5" in front of the action that contacts the barrel. My dollar bill float test stopped there.

                Is this normal for the Tikka T3?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 4barchery View Post
                  Right Click and Save. Still undecided on which color B&C
                  I plan on getting 3 new rifles and they'll all be Tikka T3 Lites, I'll get a different color stock for each. Black with grey webs for the .30-06, olive with webs for the 7mm-08 and tan with webs or all black for the 22-250

                  If the dang Sako A7 had aftermarket stocks available for it I'd go with that instead of the Tikka but it doesn't so I'll go Tikka and I won't look back. They are almost identical anyways (same maker).
                  Last edited by Daniel75; 02-26-2013, 11:12 AM.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Aggie07 View Post
                    For a rest, I used either a harris bipod with squeeze bag rear or sandbags front and squeeze bag rear. My plan is to take it out again on a good condition day and wait some time between shots to see how she shoots. I did not think heat would cause such a fluctuation.

                    I did notice that the barrel is not fully free floated. There is a rib 4-5" in front of the action that contacts the barrel. My dollar bill float test stopped there.

                    Is this normal for the Tikka T3?
                    That I don't know but I'll bet ItsLeo would know, you might PM him.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Aggie07 View Post
                      For a rest, I used either a harris bipod with squeeze bag rear or sandbags front and squeeze bag rear. My plan is to take it out again on a good condition day and wait some time between shots to see how she shoots. I did not think heat would cause such a fluctuation.

                      I did notice that the barrel is not fully free floated. There is a rib 4-5" in front of the action that contacts the barrel. My dollar bill float test stopped there.

                      Is this normal for the Tikka T3?
                      No. You should be able to get the dollar bill all the way to the action.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Daniel75 View Post
                        I plan on getting 3 new rifles and they'll all be Tikka T3 Lites, I'll get a different color stock for each. Black with grey webs for the .30-06, olive with webs for the 7mm-08 and tan with webs or all black for the 22-250

                        If the dang Sako A7 had aftermarket stocks available for it I'd go with that instead of the Tikka but it doesn't so I'll go Tikka and I won't look back. They are almost identical anyways (same maker).
                        I have got a blued T3 Lite and I ma leaning toward the black with grey webbing. The SS 223 I am going to put in the grey with black webbing, but the olive and SS look nice

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by 4barchery View Post
                          I have got a blued T3 Lite and I ma leaning toward the black with grey webbing. The SS 223 I am going to put in the grey with black webbing, but the olive and SS look nice
                          I think the olive looks awesome. All mine will be stainless.

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                            #28
                            Where is the best place to get one of those B&C stocks? I wish they made one for the A7 because the one I have won't look good for long.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Black Ice View Post
                              Where is the best place to get one of those B&C stocks? I wish they made one for the A7 because the one I have won't look good for long.

                              Enjoy our collection of the best precision rifle stock and chassis systems for your rifle that are sure to enhance your accuracy, making sure every shot counts.



                              The lack of an aftermarket stock pushed me away from the Sako. I think it's BS that Bell and Carlson will make one for Cabelas to go on the A7 for their Big Game and Varmint model A7's but won't make one for the civilian market.
                              Last edited by Daniel75; 02-26-2013, 06:52 PM.

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                                #30
                                How easy was it to switch the stocks? What is the recommened weight when tightening the action screws? 40 lbs?

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