My buddy got a Destroyer 350 and we can't get it to paper tune for nothing. I help out in an archery shop part time and know how to tune bows but this thing is giving me alot of trouble. It keeps tearing high left and now matter what I do or what arrow I use it will now change. Does anyone have any ideas for me. It is set at 65#, 27 inch draw with the stops on 27. I just wonder if we need to start twisting the yoke cables a little. I noticed that the red side is twisted really tight and the gray on is not twisted at all. Why is that? Thanks for any help you can offer.
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Destroyer 350 problems.
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This is for RH shooters using a release,
Copied from the Easton Tuning Guide:
This tear shows a combination of more
than one flight disturbance. Use the
procedures that apply to the tear pattern
for your style of shooting, and combine the
recommendations, correcting the vertical
pattern (nocking point) first, then the
horizontal. If you experience a tuning problem (especially
with the nocking point location) and are unable to correct
a high/low tear in the paper, have your local pro shop
check the ÒtimingÓ (roll-over) of your eccentric wheels or
cams.
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More than likely you have a slight cam-lean (top-right, bottom right), so you will need to untwist the right side about 1 1/2 twists. I've seen this in alot of the Destroyers. This results in a left tear, out of time causes the high tear.
Now, you will need to re-time the bow, and it will come down to half-twists in the split harness. Twist and untwist right side while keeping cams straight at full-draw. It may be off enough to put full twist in one of your cables, and if so, twist end that attaches to cam.
This is a two-cam bow, and timing is critical.
You will feel the difference when you have it timed right.
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If the tear isn't changing then it's probably due to the way you are shooting the bow. If the release isn't perfect then you are not going to get a bullet hole through paper. That's why paper tuning isn't as good of a tuning method as walk back tuning. Have someone else shoot the bow through paper and see what happens.
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Originally posted by rocky View PostMore than likely you have a slight cam-lean (top-right, bottom right), so you will need to untwist the right side about 1 1/2 twists. I've seen this in alot of the Destroyers. This results in a left tear, out of time causes the high tear.
Now, you will need to re-time the bow, and it will come down to half-twists in the split harness. Twist and untwist right side while keeping cams straight at full-draw. It may be off enough to put full twist in one of your cables, and if so, twist end that attaches to cam.
This is a two-cam bow, and timing is critical.
You will feel the difference when you have it timed right.
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Originally posted by rocky View PostMore than likely you have a slight cam-lean (top-right, bottom right), so you will need to untwist the right side about 1 1/2 twists. I've seen this in alot of the Destroyers. This results in a left tear, out of time causes the high tear.
Now, you will need to re-time the bow, and it will come down to half-twists in the split harness. Twist and untwist right side while keeping cams straight at full-draw. It may be off enough to put full twist in one of your cables, and if so, twist end that attaches to cam.
This is a two-cam bow, and timing is critical.
You will feel the difference when you have it timed right.
I bet if you do this your problem will be solved also.
Rwc
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i have heard of the ghost in the machines. I read a really good article how some bows are untunable. It is do to the fact that somewhere in the manufacturing process soemthing went wrong and the bow was not made to perfect specs. I read that it is very rare but it does happen once in a blue moon. I heard that the cam limb shaft can cause this along with alot of other things. I forgot where I read that article. Hope all comes out well.
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